Riding to the Laotian border: Crossing the Friendship Bridge at Chiang Khong

August 20, 2015

Triple Cats Cycles

23/08/2015

Nu the owner of Triple Cat Cycles did a great job resurrecting the rear wheel. If only I had found Triple Cat earlier. Actually, if only we had both found each other earlier. He only opened his business the day I arrived in Chiang Mai, so he had no stock. This morning a shipment of Surlys, a Thorn Nomad and a Velo Orange Passhunter arrived at his shop. And a pile of Ryde/Rigida Sputnik 26" rims. I would have killed for one of those rims a couple of days ago.

Triple Cats Cycles. It's on Google Maps in Chiang Mai, just north of the Railway Station and just off of Tunghotel Road. It is a Guesthouse and bike shop in one, catering for the touring cyclist. And they actually do have three cats...

Oh well, so it goes. The Mavic rim, now it's been salvaged and rebuilt with triple butted Sapim spokes should be all I need to get me through Laos, Cambodia Vietnam and back to Perth. I might slide a couple of those Ryde rims in with my bike when I pack it up for the flight to Perth.

Nu, the wheel builder and owner of Triple Cats Cycles. Nice guy and he saved my rear wheel transforming it from unusable rubbish to a first class touring wheel. I'd check here first if you're in Chiang Mai and you need any repairs or touring specific gear.

To Chiang Rai
23/08/2015

It's about 180 km from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, up and over one small mountain pass and for most of us mere mortals a two day ride. How difficult can that be? It was more than hard enough for me.

Getting out of Chiang Mai was no problem as I had elected to just follow Hiway 117 (the main road between the two cities) all the way into Chiang Rai. That one small pass was hard work, most of it was ridable, but there were several pitches that were well in excess of 8%, my "git off and push the damn bike" point. And it was hot. So once again despite my best intentions, I overcooked myself. That week off the bike had taken it's toll. Oddly, my hands can't keep up with the overheating. Prior to this trip I've never had heat rash, but twice now on this trip I've had it on my hands. This time on the palm of my left hand. I think when it's really hot and I'm labouring up big hills I had better forego the cycling gloves. How do you get heat rash on the palm of your hand?

Going down the hill on the other side was exhilarating and I felt much safer with a well trued rear wheel to help with the braking. It's hard to tell when you're ripping down it at speed, but it seems much steeper going the other way.

I managed to pull 90 km by the end of the day and found a cheezy 24 hr motel for the night. Dinner was at the local Karaoke bar across the road and a couple of hundred metres down the track. I left before the action started for the night. The cleaner at the motel worked overtime during the night as the patrons from the Karaoke bar used the motel on an hourly basis throughout the night. In the end I pulled my bike off of the terrace and into my room.

Next day it was another 90 km to Chiang Rai and there was absolutely nothing left in my legs to pedal it with. The last 20 km was down a back road and it was a pleasure to finally get off the 117. I took plenty of breaks and a mid day snooze and I still made fairly good time and rolled into town in the afternoon, taking a room in a quiet guest house out of town. I stayed two nights as there was no way I was going to be able to cycle +100 km to Chiang Khong without a rest day.

To Chiang Khong
26/08/2015

Today it was approximately 105 km from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong, first heading east on Hiway 1232 and 1326, then north on the 1174, all back roads and all of it offering excellent views and insights into Thai life.

Back road from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong, Karst mountains in the background and rice paddies in the foreground. That was the view for most of the day.

Short cut along a rice paddy canal... got a bit bumpy in parts. The new back wheel is handling it all just fine.

After about 25 km I was looking for somewhere to eat breakfast. I checked out one roadside stall, but no one was manning it, so I walked over the street to the corner shop. They saw me coming and generously, laughingly and gracefully made room for me at their breakfast table and fed me their breakfast, sticky rice and mushroom soup. The daughter and son in law were university educated, spent time in Australia and spoke very good English. After a great conversation and with a full belly, off I went. Lunch was a similar experience, but I did pay a token amount for that one.

The day off was a good decision as I made good time all the way into Chiang Khong.

105 km in 5.2 hrs, an excellent ride.

3000 km and it just keeps getting better.

Oh yeah, I clocked 3,000 km on the ride into Chiang Khong and the ride just keeps getting better...

My first view of the Mekong River glimpsed while searching for accommodation. It's a big river, originating in the high Tibetan Plateau passing through China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. And it's beautiful.

The view of the Mekong from the hotel balcony. The cat has the best table in the house.

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