June 12, 2022
Day 61: Grado to Berg
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Today was our day to shuttle back to Mollbrucke, the spot on the Drau Radweg from which we would need to continue west up the river. The shuttle pickup was to be in front of a hotel a block down our street, so we totally packed the bikes to allow our stuff to easily move on down there. The pickup time was 9:30, which left us lots of time after breakfast, so with the bikes already packed, it was in the cards to take off for somewhere.
We had been so focussed on the Alpe Adria, and its causeway straight into Grado, that we never considered other routes that might come and go from here. But we happened to look at a booklet that mentioned such cycle routes, and so when we took off, we took off east, along what turned out to be called the FVG2. It has these various ports of call, none of which mean anything to us: (Ok. I looked up FVG2, it's the Ciclovia Adriatica-Grado-Trieste, 60 km to Trieste).
The path, which began by running along the Grado lagoon was double tracked for bikes, and separated from the road. Cool.
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Before long we came to our senses and turned around. It would not do to land up in Trieste, having missed the shuttle!
The shuttle arrived on time, a van with capacity for seven, with already four on board. This left ourselves and the fellow that had stayed at the pickup hotel to load on. That was ok, but the cargo space was already jammed with the previous four bikes. There was some misunderstanding then about how our bikes would go in, what part of our gear had to come off the bikes, and where that gear would be stored. Some quick explanation from the driver would have helped, but there was time for us to freak about these issues, just looking at what was in front of us.
Some words were exchanged between Dodie and the driver, who responded at first argumentatively even seeming to suggest maybe he should not be taking us. But the solution then popped out, no doubt as was always planned, in the form of a four bike rack for the back of the van. That fixed everything, and soon we were on our way.
As it happened, Dodie sat up with the driver, Victor, and immediately these two former adversaries were chatting away amiably. In fact, they chatted all the way to Mollbrucke - four hours!
We both found it a bit of a shock getting off the van at Mollbrucke. An airplane ride usually delivers a complete change of environment, but you rather expect that. But here, a few hours in a van and not only was our Lagoon gone, but the scent of Jasmine was now Pine, and there were giant mountains standing all around. Just days before, this had been our territory, but we had adapted to lovely Grado , and now it was just confusion.
Victor assured us that five km in the saddle and all would be fine. That was good advice. I would have liked to be able to advise Victor in return. He had explained to Dodie on the ride that he feels the world is heading for a bad end. Further, he feels he has no prospect of ever owning his own home, nor of having a family. By working at his job, he would never have or save enough for that. In any event, he would not want to subject children to what is coming.
I guess I am a capitalist in the Ebeneezer Scrooge mold, which is surprising. But in Victor's shoes, I would observe how the transfer business is run, develop a strategy for grabbing market share, secure a business loan to buy a van, and get into it. In the alternative, one can wait for the current owners to get old, or into financial difficulty, and make them an offer they can't refuse. I mean, Scrooge and Marley did it with old Fezziwig, so...!
Victor was right, and pretty soon we were back into it. We looked at the vigorous Drau, which thankfully was running in the correct direction.
One problem remained - we were lonesome for the hoards of cyclists that had been funnelling down the Alpe Adria. That also got fixed - have a look. There is a chance that these may be headed more for Maribor than for Grado. We'll talk to some later and see.
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Our place for the night is billed as a cyclist stop, on the Drau Radweg. We have a little cabin, with a central sanitary block, and breakfast will be in the adjoining restaurant. Seeing the restaurant, I asked the lady about eis, and she brought this right out to our cabin!
We are sitting on our little porch with this, and Dodie is working on booking us ahead, trying to find affordable places, or any places, now on the stage from Munich to Prague. She is making periodic exclamations about how this is impossible, but slowly by slowly seems to be making progress.
What gave Meaning to Life today? Speedy establishment of peaceful coexistence between Victor and Dodie.
Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 3,421 km (2,124 miles)
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