Day 48: Salzburg to Sankt Gilgen

May 30, 2022

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I got sent out to the nearby Spar market with instructions to buy instant coffee and only instant coffee. So I got this German chocolate bar. Good quality, only 1.19 euros!

Each square is loose within the inner foil.

We have been so fast going around our circuit out of Leipzig that we now feel we can seek out one or more extensions and still make it home on time. The first one we have chosen is the Salzkammergut, which is a spin around lakes to the east of Salzburg. The inspiration came from the recent blog by Lyle and Kirsten McLeod : A Wilde Ride In Salzkammergut - May 2022. The McLeod's in turn took inspiration from the Anderson's 2021 Road to Rome.

Scott and Rachel could claim to have last been in this area 22 years ago, but for us cycling newcomers it was 8 years ago. At that time we were in the camping, north of Salzburg on the Salzach and east along a small stream. We cycled this a number of times then, going into and out of town.

This time we found ourselves on the same small stream, but of course did not stop at the camping. Rather we continued east, toward Eugendorf.

The stream. I think last time we saw fish in here.

In doing this, we had excellent guidance from the McLeod's track, which they in turn had taken from the Andersons. I was very impressed when some days ago we contacted Lyle asking about the track, and he replied almost instantly, then sending the files immediately. We also have a map that we got at TI, that clearly shows the towns, and the route in red. It couldn't be better.

For about 15 km out of Salzburg while pleasant, I would describe our route as "suburban". I did not really have an image to compare it to, so no basis for complaint. Ok, maybe I expected to see Julie Andrews running up a hill covered in meadow flowers, with high mountains in the background. Not that I even know where the darn film was actually shot.

Things actually deteriorated a bit, ok, a lot, toward Eugendorf. My rear brake, which had been worked on not too long into the trip, was again showing signs of low hydraulic oil. We had been on the lookout for a convenient and not busy bike shop for some days. So when we saw a sign pointing to a bike shop in 400 meters (off route), we took the bait. 400 meters later, we saw nothing. Well actually we saw a large shopping centre. and a McDonald's drive through. The injured brake and us crawled back to the route and carried on.

At Thalgau there were some changes. This is the spot where, as the McLeods were keenly aware. the Andersons peeled off the route and headed up on a ridge towards the Fuschlsee. The McLeods and us stayed low (for a time) and continued along, glancing nervously up at the ridge, and then at a giant mountain that seemed to appear between us and where we presumed the Andersons had gone.

Anyway, it was scenic:

Thalgau itself had a lot of industrial activity.

Looking at the ridge - the photo does not show the heights.

This one loomed larger and larger as we progressed.

3/4 of the way through the ride, the nature of the scenery took another turn, and we arrived at what may well be the signature feature of the Salzkammergut. This was our first lake, near Sankt Lorenz. It is called the Mondsee, and to us it strongly resembles the mountain lakes found in our own Banff National Park. Mainly it's the turquoise colour, that reveals a glacial origin.

After Mondsee we had the first real climb of the ride. The altitude gain was only about 150m, but it was on road and therefore not too comfortable. No real problem though, and we were still happy with this over the Anderson route!

We then descended into Sankt Gilgen, which revealed itself to be a very pretty small town. We scouted around, looking for famous landmarks of the McLeod/Anderson expeditions. Where had they slept? Which was their cafe? Actually if we had wanted to look for landmarks, then it would have been useful to know where Mozart’s mother, Anna, was born in St. Gilgen and Mozart’s sister Nannerl lived in St. Gilgen for many years. Mozart himself, however, never set foot here.

Sankt Gilgen is on the Wolfgangsee. Mozart never swam here, and it does not quite have the requisite turquoise colour, but its nice.

One thing we did spot was a bike shop, and they had time to look at the brake. The treatment? It needed another bleeding (sounds medieval). As there was no leak found in the system I am puzzled by this, but hey, now it works - just in time for the big mountains next week!

What gave Meaning to Life today? Magura Royal Blood (brake fluid).

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 2,711 km (1,684 miles)

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Ben ParkeSo glad you’re taking a spin into the salzkammergut. I’ve been through there twice, the second time in less than cooperative weather. All the lakes are beautiful. My favorite by far is the Traunsee. If you have time, take the Seilbahn up the mountain from Ebensee. The views from the top are spectacular. I also biked down the the Hallstaetter See the first year. Bit of a tough trail to ride, at least with my bike, but the views were unforgettable. I think I bailed and took the train on the way back to avoid the rough ride.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonI’ve gotten behind a few days and missed the fact that you’re following in our tire treads. I hope you’re not disappointed, and I look forward to seeing where you stop next.
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2 years ago