Day 32: Stein am Rhein to Lindau

May 14, 2022

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We decided to have an attitude adjustment, and be less concerned about high prices for low services. High prices remain a problem, because pure arithmetic could shut down our tour, no matter what our attitude is. Anyway, we're working on it. But as you can see from the above track, we cycled 79 km today to reach the first hotel we could find under 150 euros.

Back at our youth hostel, our new attitude means that rather than being crabby about these teenagers clogging up access to the breakfast, we are saying "Oh, a swim team from Hungary", how interesting, and quite an excursion for them!

The first time we came to Stein am Rhein, we blew right by and around the back of the town, and were ready to leave the area when I spotted a tourist pointing his camera up. I went over to see what the attraction was, and oh my, Stein am Rhein is one of the prettiest places going! The only thing, you have to enter the altstadt through the gate in the old wall. Well, duh!

The main thing in Stein am Rhein is the many frescoed buildings. My phone is not best for really recording this, but the shots below will give the general idea.

We also spotted these Swiss watches in a store window. They were only about 250 francs each, which makes them not such a huge status symbol. Anyway, now that we have seen some watches we need to find chocolate!

It's very quick to leave the altstadt, cross a bridge, and then you are back in a "normal" world. In that world, both yesterday and today, in this middle Rhine area, the Swiss and also German protection of cyclists is rather lacking. Through towns we were basically on road and fighting to cross streets, and in many cases the roads were narrow so that any attempted bike lanes on them could also be used by the cars.

Another problem feature is round abouts. I refere to these as rotary bicycle grinders. Like this one:

Dodie on road and on foot, getting ready to cross.

Tiring problems that we had about roads and traffic yesterday and in he forst part of today began to evaporate as we drew nearer to Konstanz. And as we'll describe below, the day soon morphed into one of the most glorious cycling experiences.

Here is bike path not too far beyond Stein am Rhein

We have reached the western arm of the Bodensee

Looking South into Switzerland, it is beginning to look rather Swiss Alp-y. Sorry about the rotten camera. That could be fixed after tomorrow.

We stopped to smell these roses, and this could have added Meaning of Life today, had lots more not happened.

The path by the arm of the lake was often wide, and the view great.

Our main initial target was the city of Konstanz, but there were still a few nices places along the lake arm, like Steckborn.

The lake shore was very shallow, and had lots of swans and ducks. We even saw one quite large fish just swimming around. This swan is nesting on something quite far from the shore.

Time for a bit of a rant about lycra warriors. This being a Saturday, they were out by the dozens. The path, increasingly as we approached Konstanz, was very multi use. It had many doddery people like us , on slow and heavy ebikes, walkers, baby buggies, people of all ages on regular bikes of all type, and slightly faster ebike riders. Mix into this aggressive young men who think they are at the velodrome. We found if you at all interfere with their self awarded ownership of the path (such as by existing), they will swear at you, as they whiz by, or around.

Of course, there are also other "criminals" out there. At one point we found that what we thought was the route deteriorated into a footpath. We were on the wrong side of the tracks from the real route. Rather than backtrack, I grabbed our bikes and trekked with them over the railbed. Those Swiss trains are electric, and both swift and silent. You have to be very alert, like me!. One passed between bike 1 and bike 2.

The day really started to develop when we reached Konstanz. The city is beautiful, and in today's bright sun just brimming with activity. Everybody was milling about, when not sitting out at the many cafes. We set ourselves only three objectives - check out the munster, have another look at Imperia, the unique statue in the harbour, and buy tickets for the ferry across the lake, to Meersburg.

Our favourite bike shop, on the main street. They helped us on a previous trip, but we would have to check that blog to see why. This time, though my brakes are acting up, there was not time to talk to them.

The lady is happy because she probably got that eis for 1.40!

Dodie thought the Munster was more interesting than I did. I am a sucker for the painted ceilings and fancy stained glass. Without that, you can bury as many saints in the crypt as you want, and I am not impressed! I do find it interesting about the strange images church decorators tend to put up, and i'm not sure the Pope knows about or could necessarily explain many of them. For example, look at the image of "Skeletor" in a priest's hat, with one cherub in attendance. and how about the line of carved, contorted, babies? above the image?

Here is Imperia, the rotating voluptuous representation of a courtesan, holding a Pope and the Emperor in her hands. The statue was erected in 1993, obviusly to contoversy, but it is on private land. It has since become a famous symbol of the city. "The statue refers to a short story by Balzac, "La Belle Impéria". The story is a harsh satire of the Catholic clergy's morals, where Imperia seduces cardinals and princes at the Council of Constance and has power over them all. The historical Imperia that served as the source material of Balzac's story was a well-educated Italian courtesan who died in 1512,"

The area by the ferries that cross the lake was another hive of activity. Dodie went into the ticket office to see about getting us to Meersburg. Standing outside, I could see the boat and a line of people boarding. It would leave in ten minutes. So I was wishing Dodie good luck (and fast action) in the ticket office. Amazingly she came out in five minutes and we were the last ones over the ramp! Wow!

As our boat pulled away, I could see that the lake water is glacial green. We, and the Rhine, that feeds the lake, are not at all far from the Alps.

Once off the boat at Meersburg, we joined the flows of cyclists heading up and down the lake shore. We encountered hundreds. Just everybody was out enjoying the sun, the many eis cafes, beer gardens, beaches, and town pedestrian streets. And now, dangerous on road bits were replaced by fahrradstrasses - streets mainly dedicated to bikes. In fact there were now enough bikes that the cars were outnumbered and quite cowed. It was great, and we sailed along just totally enjoying it all.

Even the Lycra warriors now seemed under control. We came to a spot where they had obviously been corralled and made to race in about a one block circuit. It was a race organized by a local cycle sport organization. I thought it was a great idea, to tire these folks out and eventually slow them down!

Our friend Franz, who lives near Nurnburg, had introoduced us in the past to the joys of cycling from one beer garden to another. We appreciate this even though we don't drink beer. It's a good outdoor and food experience, for people who most often arrive by bike. Here is one, not too far from Lindau.

If you are able to zoom on the photo a bit, you can get an idea of what is on offer and for how much. One cultural point - common to all Germany - is that soft drinks cost about as much as beer (or vice versa). The price for a glass of coke is about CAN $5, water is the same.

Hey, those are the Alps we are approaching!

Lindau is an island sitting a little offshore in the south part of the Lake. It is totally covered with interesting buildings, including (according to the tourist brochure) 18 don't miss sights. Our hotel (yes, the only one we could sort of afford) is right in the middle of them! We will start tomorrow by visiting a selection.

After that we will head into the mountains in search of Heidi, the famous heroine from the Johanna Spyri books. But first we will stop by Manni and Kristin and Matti. Their story, and Heidi, and Lindau, all coming right up!

What Gave Meaning to Life today: The chance to cycle in a sunny place with unlimited eis cafes, other cafes, beaches, protected bike ways, and beautiful ancient, maintained and restored buildings. Worldwide, for a place of pure peace and enjoyment, Bodensee must rank high.

Today's ride: 79 km (49 miles)
Total: 1,953 km (1,213 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonWow! You have come a long way, already in southern Germany and almost half of the planned kilometers finished!
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2 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Suzanne GibsonWow, I hadn't noticed those km accumulating. Strangely we don't feel like we have yet done enough to gain maximum form. We may have to add some distance, or hills?
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyLoved cycling Lake Constance although it seems a lot busier now than when we did it in 2016. Thanks for reminding me of great memories. Sounds like you are enjoying wonderful weather.
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2 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesActually we felt part of a movement - of so many cyclists, enough to push the cars around. I am writing this a week later, and now we have rain and chill. No matter, because we brought the appropriate gear!
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2 years ago