July 23, 2019
John o'Groats
So we finally arrived at Joh o'Groats. Certainly one of the longer end to end cycle journeys through the UK, at least time wise. John o'groats itself is nothing to write home about but we were expecting that. Thankfully some of the sights along the way made for a pleasant ride.
Staying at the B&B last night was, in the end, a very good decision with the bad weather persisting into the night. This morning was bright and sunny with a strong southerly wind blowing and it would remain that way until the wind dropped late in the evening. After a few errands around town (Leigh was in desperate need of an anti-histamine to reduce the swelling and itching from all her midge bites) we left Thurso and climbed slowly out on National Cycle Route 1. Eventually we turned northwards and, with the wind behind us, rushed downhill into Castletown where the coast and the main road eastwards, the A836, met. There is an ancient flagstone factory at Castletown with a very nice looking walk laid on around it but we didn't stop because we were headed for Dunnet Head, the most northerly point on the UK mainland.
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The ride to Dunnet Head was really enjoyable despite the strong wind buffeting us. The country side is far less affected by farming and industry and gives a glimpse of how beautiful Scotland can be. It is also a great birding site and we had greate views of five new species - Puffins, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Fulmars, Northern Skua and European Rock Pipit.
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From Dunnet Head we first took a quiet back road before ending up on the A836 for the rest of the way to John o'Groats. With a couple of kilometers to go we stopped at Canisbay Kirk, the sight of Jan de Groot's tombstone. Jan de Groot is the Dutchman who lived here in the sixteenth century and after whom John o'Groats is named. His tombstone stands in the vestibule of the church and the lettering is of such a strange script it is hard to dicipher.
Once at John o'Groats we stopped for the obligatory photographs before setting up camp at the somewhat dreary campsite. We made the most of the good weather and walked up the hill to the local pub for a celebratory supper. Tomorrow promises to get wet annd windy so we have nothing planned. The next day we hope to catch the ferry across to the Orkneys.
Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 2,504 km (1,555 miles)
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