April 18, 2012
Gouda to Delft: and a library visit
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WEATHER: cloudy, very windy with intermittent headwind
The wind wasn't quite so strong this morning, and it felt a bit warmer than yesterday as we left Gouda past a large brick windmill and along another canal. The ride to Delft was relatively short, and we hoped to avoid strong headwinds and rain showers. As it turned out, conditions were better than we expected.
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We travelled mostly on separate cycle paths parallel to quiet two-lane roads through several small towns and by more pastures and many tall greenhouses containing both flowers and vegetables. We rode on a bike trail along a river past a huge (deserted) camping ground between two lakes (Rottemeren and Zevenhuizerplas), where we were sheltered from the wind. Then we walked our bikes across the river on a pedestrian bridge and encountered the full force of the headwind for a few kilometres on a dirt trail detour through a strange flat sandy construction zone. We were tired and hungry and began to look for a lunch stop when we got back on the paved bike path about 11:30. We stopped at a cafe with several fancy ultralight bicycles parked outside and went inside to find the waitress having coffee and smoking with the cyclists. She told us they started serving food at 12:30, and there would be another cafe a few kilometres away after we crossed the bridge back over the river. Officially no smoking is allowed in public places in the Netherlands, but it seems that in the mornings many cafes are open on a very casual basis for drinks and smokes. The friendly cyclists in the cafe came outside with us to retrieve their road bikes. They asked about our Bike Fridays and how far we were going. One of them then told us that he was a bike mechanic, and that he could never be satisfied riding a bicycle as slow as ours.
We found the bridge across the river and came into the small town of Bergschenhoek, where we had chicken sandwiches and coffee. It felt really good to get out of the wind for awhile, and we lingered over our caffe macchiatos. Then the route took us on separated paths along much busier roads through the southeast suburbs of Delft which consisted of large modern apartment blocks, and more upscale residences on canals with each house sporting its own boat dock. There has been a lot of new house construction in this area. After this the route managed to find its way through an undeveloped area and a park which took us almost to the centre of Delft.
As we arrived in the city around 2:30, the sun showed its face and we passed groups of younger children cycling home from school. We made our way through the picturesque brick streets to de Emmauspoort Hotel, where our room turned out to be large and warm with a bathtub and a real double bed, the first we had encountered in the Netherlands. 'Double beds' here are usually two single mattresses put next to each other with a gap in between and two single duvets on top--not what we we're used to in North America or other parts of Europe. This hotel caters to cycle tours and had secure bike parking in their interior courtyard.
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Eva works in our local library, and she had heard about the Delft Openbare Bibliotheek or DOK, the very innovative public library in this town of 90,000 residents. Our hotel was only a few blocks from the centrally located DOK, so after cleaning up we walked over to take a look. It is indeed a bright and impressive place with its glass roof, nice cafe, moveable shelves, lots of computers and audio-visual material, and a children's section with cozy seating areas and dress-up boxes. As well, there is a 5000 piece modern art library with paintings and sculptures that can be loaned out for six month periods and purchased if the borrower wishes to keep the piece. The librarian there told us she often goes out to schools with several paintings and accompanying music to familiarize the children with art. The library was hopping with people, a craft fair in the central hall was just winding down, and parents were waiting in the children's area for a program to finish. We enjoyed all the activity and took lots of photos. In case there are other library-lovers reading this, here is a link to an article about DOK:
http://theshiftedlibrarian.com/archives/2008/03/19/visiting-the-most-modern-library-in-the-world.html
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The sun was out again as we left the library, and we walked a different route through the old town, checking out restaurant menus on the way. Just before we reached the hotel, a short sharp rain shower suddenly descended. For dinner we chose a Lonely Planet recommendation: 't Walletje (the Little Wall) and had a reasonable meal with unfortunately very slow service. Eva ordered grilled prawns (served in the shell with heads on) and Al made the better choice of pork loin in a good sauce. Our desserts, pancakes with ice cream and caramel sauce were the high points of the dinner. We returned to our comfortable room for a good night's sleep.
Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 155 km (96 miles)
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