November 4, 2019
Day 47 - Candela to Venosa
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
I don't think any of the classic Sergio Leone spaghetti westerns were filmed where we rode today, however it certainly looked like they could have been. The only exception would be the technology march of the 21st century and the massive windmills that are everywhere now. If there were any around in the 60's and 70's they would have been made of wood and pumping water, not electrons.
Any way, back to the point ... the terrain we rode through today was once again quite different than previous days. Broad arid plains with much more gently inclined hills. Add in remote.
From the time we started in Candela until we finished in Venosa we didn't come across another town or commercial business, and we could count the vehicles we saw on our hands. At times it actually seemed a little spooky .. are we really in Europe?
Our sun came back today, the wind remained but it was at our backs for most of the day ... think 47.8 km/hr on a very slight downhill without pedalling. Sun, tailwinds and the almost complete lack of any other vehicle traffic on our entire ride is the good.
Oh, and no dogs chased us. Another tick in the good column!
For the most part we were on good to decent roads, however our descent from km 7 through 12, where we really thought we were going to see Clint Eastwood on a horse around every turn, was alternating between pavement and washed out gravel or mud, turning what would have been a thrilling descent onto a game of ride fast, hit the brakes, maneuver through pot or mud holes, then repeat about 20 times.
This was the bad, and in the grand scheme of things, it really wasn't bad but I have to have something to go with the theme. :)
The ugly came when we got to Venosa. It's a decent sized town with a (newly discovered to us) very good wine pedigree. As with everything else around here, the town centre is multiple centuries, if not millennia old and there are a number of historical buildings, churches, forts and monasteries. We even got here at before 2 pm and had time to check it all out. The very nice hotel we are staying at is in a 15th century building but very updated. Everything works. So what's ugly about this?
Well, everything works, except on Mondays. Today is Monday.
There are a number of restaurants in town, and several of them looked quite good ... according to Google. However, Mr Google got the names, locations and opening times wrong for just about all of them. On the last point, opening times, it turns out on Monday, all the restaurants bar one on the very outskirts of the town, that we were physically able to locate, were closed.
Tell two people on a bike tour that they can't get anything to eat and things get ugly!
The one place that was open, Il Brigante was sort of like the Denny's of Italy. This is Italy, so the food (pizza) was actually pretty good, but the anticipated ambiance of a family run trattoria with red checker cloth tables filled with multigenerational families eating and laughing was just not there.
As with the road rant though, we did get fed, it was pretty good, we did get a bottle of very good local wine ... and we got a lame story out of it. That's the ugly!
Song of he Day, Liar by Chinese Man ... and a tip of the hat to Google ... almost none of the information about any of the restaurants in this town was correct .. wrong names, locations, open/closed status. Google (Maps in particular) does not present you with information that allows you to make your own decisions. It presents you with a blue dotted line on a pale background that 50+ year old eyes cannot render and detail from, leading to a commercial establishment that has paid Google, in one way or the other, to lead you to them. Even then they get it wrong! OK, Google rant over .. great song, and as seems to be the way with French artists, a video that's a bit on the dark side. Works for me!
Pics tell the rest of today's story.
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I think I successfully ‘photoshopped’ a pic about 18 years ago. Took me almost a full day!
4 years ago
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5 years ago
Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 2,847 km (1,768 miles)
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https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/dubrovnik2018/lagrasse/
5 years ago