Passport, please

May 18, 2022

the promised recap by way of stamps

I remember the Ara bicycle path quite well, despite the fact that there isn't much to it. It's short, flat, and straight. Stamp booths are at each end of the path. The Hangang path through Seoul is a different story altogether. It was a blur. The path and the scenery were actually very pleasant, but nothing in particular stood out. I was mostly surprised that there weren't any pedestrian or cyclist traffic jams. It was very easy to navigate on a weekday afternoon.

The urban sprawl ramps down at Hanam, and once across Paldang Bridge, the fancy "getaway" restaurants and coffeehouses give way to countryside dotted with small towns here and there. Those towns directly on the path make an effort to make cyclists feel welcome. Then come the "보"'s, or weirs, that include rest areas, and often convenience stores.

My only regret this tour was bypassing 충주댐 (Chungju Dam) in order to save a few kilometers. I didn't realize that we needed this stamp to get the Hangang stickers! Not that it's a big deal. It just would have been nice.

I expected the Saejae segment to be an afterthought, a rough means of connecting two rivers. I imagined noisy highway shoulders, sketchy mountain bike trails, difficult navigation, and few services for cyclists. Instead, we were treated to a straightforward and pleasant challenge, with good infrastructure, beautiful scenery, and nice, down-to-earth people and shops in the towns.

The northern stretch of the Nakdonggang, the longest river in Korea, gave us long periods of flat riding accompanied by gorgeous views of the river and surrounding mountains. We used this opportunity to try different regional dishes, enjoy frequent rest stops at the many levee waysides, and chat with fellow travelers.

The highlight of the southern half is 박진고개[Bakjingogae], the hill that will leave you laughing and crying at the same time. The distance between both stamp booths and towns increases, and if you're riding the path without rest days, it will start to feel like you're not making much progress. The rewards waiting at the Busan certification center will more than make up for it!

The East Coast path is a different experience. It relies more on scenic waterfront roads, although the southern 경북도 (Gyeongbuk province) section frequently brings one inland to tackle hill after hill. Each one is manageable, but they will wear you down over time. Near the water, the views are amazing

The northern 강원도 (Gangweon province) is easier on the knees, but urban riding through the cities of 동해 (Donghae), 강릉(Gangneung), and 속초 (Sokcho) will test your reflexes and navigational skills. In between are lovely beaches, fishing villages, and coffeehouses.

Last but not least, the Bukhangang path provides an easy, scenic tour close to Seoul. I think it's marketed as an entry-level path, a way to try out long-distance cycling without having to use up valuable vacation time. For us, it was a fantastic way to wind down the trip, easing our way into the city over the course of two days.

There's a lot more to say about bike touring in Korea. I want to share some tips for people who might be considering bringing their bikes here, write about the changes I've witnessed as a visitor over the last 25 years, speculate on a second tour to complete the grand slam, and muse more about the big picture of our visit and what it means to us as cyclists and as a multicultural couple. Look for these in upcoming entries.

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