August 10, 2023
Day 90 Leavenworth to Skykomish WA.
I went to finish this day’s entry and it was blank. So I’ll start over. I must’ve lost a page about twenty times over the past 3 months. Probably something to do with lack of Wi-Fi and poor cell service resulting in failure to save an entry.
I slept poorly as I was somewhat nervous about the climb up Steven’s Pass, the traffic and the condition or existence of the shoulder as well as the traffic. I was on the road by 7:30 after topping off my tires. After riding about a mile, a young woman rode up on a fully loaded bike and asked where I was going. It turns out that Sarah and her friend CG were riding from Maine on the Northern Tier route when they too were diverted from Route 20 due to the fire. We had a rather leisurely climb for the first 30 miles except for one 5-6% grade around mile 20.
Then the mountain kicked up as mountains tend to do near the top and we putzed up the next 6-7 miles. We had been joined by a couple from the Netherlands but once we reached the top, they buzzed down the other side while the three of us savored the moment with Peter and Henry who were waiting for me at the pass. He had picked up two hitchhikers who had gone to Leavenworth to resupply and were returning to the Pacific Crest Trail. They were very amused by Henry’s jowls flapping in the wind as he stuck his head out the sunroof as he loves to do.
After taking photos of our last pass, we headed down in a spaced out fashion for safety. I went last as I tend to be cautious; this was not a time to be like my friend Thurid, the fearless octogenarian on Lummi Island who relishes her downhills.
The road had been generally decent on the ascent but the shoulder was in poor shape on parts of the descent, necessitating taking the lane. For a significant time, there was a passing lane so this shouldn’t have inconvenienced any drivers. Nevertheless, two wahoos pulled up next to me in a white pickup with two American flags mounted on the cab, slowed down to my speed (20 mph) and said something derogatory which I couldn’t fully hear due to the noise of the wind and traffic. Anyway, I was too focused on the tarmac to pay attention to idiots.
The first ten miles were intense as the grade was steep, the air cold and the traffic heavy. The next seven miles were more enjoyable although my hands were sore from gripping the brakes. Then I actually had to pedal to overcome the headwind. I saw Sarah and CG biking back uphill on the other side. They had decided to go back and visit Deception Falls! Ah, youth.
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After arriving at camp, Peter and I went out to dinner at the Whistle Stop in Skykomish, a small mountain town with a train track running through the middle of it. The bar/restaurant is about a hundred years old. The actual wooden bar is well preserved and invites you to reach out and touch it. This appears to be the hub of town as there were many inhabitants, both young and old, congregating there. They also must have some impressive craft people as there was a huge crocheted American flag tied to the rafters and an adorable knitted bear among the decorations.
Early to bed. Tomorrow is a long day.
Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 3,405 miles (5,480 km)
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