March 27, 2017
Stage One: Paris to Lyon: The Way of St. Martin (first part) on Eurovelo 6
We start off this stage in the centre of Paris, at the cathedral Notre Dame de Paris. In the courtyard there is a brass disk identifying the starting point for measuring distances in France. According to one internet source:
"Just like the visitors of Florence have the habit of rubbing the snout of Porcellino the golden boar to ensure a return to magical Firenze, Parisian tourists have invented their own traditions for good luck to do with the point zero plate. Some spin on it on one foot while making a wish, others kiss while standing on it together, third touch it to celebrate their joy of conquering Paris and so on…"
Notre Dame dates from approximately the 13th century, but it was built on the site of a 5th century cathedral. Since pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostella began in the 9th century, Notre Dame is the logical Parisian starting point for them.
On the other hand, there is another - johnny come lately - starting point. This is the appropriately named Tour St. Jacques, located just across the Seine from Notre Dame on the Rive Droite (north) side. Tour St. Jacques dates from the 16th century, but has grabbed some pilgrimage fame with a statue of St. James on the top.
According to caminoways.com:"Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie and the Tour Saint Jacques were the departing point of the Via Toronensis (Paris and Tours Way) of the Camino de Santiago and meeting point for many pilgrims heading to Santiago. From Paris, they would head South towards Orléans, then Tours, the Bordeaux region and St Jean Pied de Port, at the foot of the Pyrenees, to continue on their journey joining pilgrims along the French Way"
Well then, we will cover all bases, and make sure to start from both spots!
Paris is of course stuffed with must see sites, both inside the city and in the surrounding area. We will reserve general tourism maybe for when we get back in three months. But as we head out toward Orleans, we will pass by two critical towns - Versailles and Chartres. These are the locations for the palace of Louis XIV (and Marie Antoinette) and the UNESCO world heritage cathedral. Versailles palace is all guilt and mirrors, and Chartres cathedral is a 13th century gothic classic. Chartres, by the way, has its own pilgrimage relic - the Sancta Camisa, the tunic worn by Mary at Christ's birth.
By Orleans we will have reached the Loire. Travelling the Loire, pilgrimage wise, we will be on the Way of Saint Martin - the patron saint of Tours, down river. But we are heading up river, toward Lyon. Bicycling wise, it's part of the gorgeous Loire a Velo route, at least until Nevers. From that point we continue on Eurovelo 6, but we will jump the Eurovelo ship near Paray le Monial to fight our way over some hills and arrive at the famous monastery of Cluny. From there we will soon be at Macon and Lyon, set to descend the river Rhone into Provence!
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