March 31, 2017
Day Four: Orleans to Jargeau
Make sure to read the newly added end to yesterday's entry!
The next town along from the little hamlet where we hae stayed had no services, but beyond that lay Gidy, where Bernard had told us we could find a bakery. Once in that village we asked a man in the street. He easily showed us the way, commenting that this was "his" only retail business. The man turned out to be Benoit Perdereau, the mayor of the town. In true small town form we also learned that he had married an Argentinian and that he was on his own right now since she was visiting home.
The GPS lead us through a few twists and turns and on in to the Orleans cathedral. On our other visit here our approach had been from the river, so all we saw was the old town and beautiful cathedral. This time we came from the north and it was a relief to leave the ugly modern stuff and be back among the elegant old stone buildings.
In the cathedral we scared up someone to stamp our Creantiales. Because Orleans is Joan of Arc town, we also noted lots of Joan stuff. For example many stained glass windows are a little cartoonish, telling the Joan story.I also looked to get photo of a Joan on horseback statue, but the one in the cathedral was too stylized for my taste.
Finally, we descended from the cathedral to the Loire. Thismis one of our most favourite rivers, and it was great to be back. We were also back to La Loire a Velo, the 800 km world class cycle route along the river. What a relief to not have to fight traffic, and to have every turn marked.
We cruised along the south side of the river, enjoying the wide open view and cries of gulls. But with the night in the cold tent, early start, and blog not done, we decided on an early finish, targetting any hotel in not too distant Jargeau. At this time too both Dodie's knees began to play up, and she also reported no strength, a sign she was probably getting my infection.
The image of an early stop at a nice hotel therefore became increasingly enticing. We rolled into Jargeau early enough, before 3:30, and went to the tourist information. There we learned Jargeau has only one hotel - the Cheval Blanc. Went there only to find the place shuttered. I checked a guide book and found that the office only opens at 5:30. But there is another hotel across the river in St. Denis that opens at 4. So I dragged the lagging Dodie all the way over there and went in. Perhaps I made a mistake by introducing myself as a pilgrim on the Chemin St. Jacques, but the man claimed the hotel was full. I had the idea of getting Dodie to phone and see if there truly was a room, but she was too beat for such shenanigans.
We dragged our tails back over the bridge and went to sit on a bench by the Cheval Blanc. When 5:30 came and went and nothing happened I returned to tourist information. By now Dodie had the shakes from basically two hours sitting out in the cold. Verifying the Cheval Blanc probably was indeed closed, the girl revealed that the tourist association itself operated a hostel, down by the river. So 34 euros got us the key to a building with beds for 17, a large kitchen, and several bathrooms. Though it sounds like a dream come true, the place is actually very small, with the 17 being mostly crammed into closely spaced bunk beds. However being the only ones there, we assigned ourselves a private room. It is actually sort of a cell, about 8x8 with one bunk bed. Still, as the de facto managers we also authorised ourselves to spread gear and bikes down the corridor. And we swiped pillows from other rooms for Dodie's knees. Ha, ha.
Dodie is sleeping deeply now, in early evening. By tomorrow I hope she will be ready to storm up the Loire. If not, like if she has my infection, we still have plenty of drugs on hand!
Pictures coming...
Today's ride: 46 km (29 miles)
Total: 210 km (130 miles)
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