Shkoder to Near Fushe Milot (Arberia Palace Hotel)

June 24, 2023

My "early" start ended up being 7:30. I was aiming for around 7:00. I should know by now it takes me longer than I think to get ready -- even though I was mostly packed up last night. After 9 days off my bike, I'm a little worried about how today's going to go.

Seems pleasant enough despite the clouds and haze. I think this is looking back at Shkoder.

Did I mention the weather service alert of "poor air quality" today?

Chuck had given me Kamoot directions from Shkoder to Durres, but I couldn't get it to load as I have the free version. No worries though, I had basically copied the route over to RideWithGPS so no problem. Right? Wrong!!

Wildilife sighting! I actually picked this guy up and moved him across the road. Not sure where exactly he thought he was going, but I tried.

I think this was the pic where I noticed the dark clouds ahead as they were a little more prominent in my photo.

I meandered my way down some nice quiet roads. I had so many mountain views but with the air quality being "poor" today, it was really hazy. As I had left Shkroder, I heard thunder booming behind me. Eventually, a bit of rain caught up to me, but lucky me, a covered gas station appeared. I took cover and when it didn't let up very fast, the attendant brought me a chair to sit in. Very kind. So, there I was sitting with my bike next to the gas pumps. 🤣

I avoided the first dirt road it wanted me to turn down, but then I ended up on some later. RideWithGPS was pissing me off. I was pretty sure Chuck wouldn't have routed me this way so I turned on my data long enough to see where I was in relation to the route for Kamoot. Ya, I need to be up higher. I routed myself up to the paved road, except at one point it was definitely looking sketchy.

Then the dogs start barking at me, but thankfully they were tied up. I had to push/pull my bike up this steep gravel/potholed bit and it was a struggle. Thanks to the barking dog as I was next to a house, a lady saw me and came out and helped me push the rest of the way. I had seen a gate and was worried it would be locked, but then realized it was probably the gate to her house. I was breathing pretty heavy at this point and the sweat was pouring off me. She indicated for me to come in for a drink, but I pointed to my water bottles and gave her the thumbs up. I had miles to cover. I thanked her and shook her hand even though she didn't speak English.

I don't think Chuck would have sent me down dirt road, but RideWithGPS sure did. I wasn't happy and either was that goat!

Shortly after, I hit a short climb and was all mad again. Shortly after, I had a nice long downhill run. All that grumpiness and I just had to be patient a little bit longer.

The sun had come out and it was blazing hot. I began to wonder if maybe I should spend the night in Lezhe which wasn't that far away. I looked at Chuck's route again and thought it was going to overshoot so just decided to drop down to the main highway. I was only on it about 6 miles, but man oh man, back to a traffic nightmare. At least the lane was wide enough that I had space though since there was no shoulder. I took a short break at a gas station and looked at the hotel situation. I had just decided I would go to the hotel there and I saw a short steep hill. Screw that, I'll have to come back over that tomorrow, I'm going to keep going. 🤣

I backtracked a little and headed through the main part of town. Then I realized I'd better take a proper break and get something to eat before continuing on. The only thing that sounded good was a salad believe it or not. It'd be cold! I briefly worried about how they washed the lettuce as the tap water here is not the best, but I didn't care.

Cold juicy tomatoes never tasted so good!

Had a great break before heading back out. The sun had gone behind clouds again so it was better. For the first time this trip, I actually was able to put in my earphones and listen to music. The traffic and road conditions have been way too intense up until now to be able to do it. (I never listen to music when road conditions or traffic are bad.) Didn't get to listen for too long, but it sure cheered me up instantly and I forgot about how hot it was.

This reminded me of my friends on the farm in Cleveland

My air quality has changed to "fair." I can see the mountains now! That crop has little purple flowers. I wondered if it was lavender. Bill, is it?

See those switchbacks up the mountain? Always glad that's not my route!

Loved the house and flowers, but look closely, they've used way up high on the mountain for some sort of crop/trees. Impressive.

Made my way to my hotel. It was expensive at $40, but cheap in comparison to US prices. There is another hotel just up the street and it was packed, but I had read some bad reviews. This one was on Booking and had excellent reviews. Get this. I am the only one here!! Creepy!

The only problem is I accidentally went part way down on an "A" highway. My routing wants me to backtrack, but I can't get across the highway because of guard rails and there's not shoulder. Tomorrow morning should be interesting as I can't see a way to the side roads I should be on until a couple of miles....

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 639 miles (1,028 km)

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