On our way

May 17, 2024 to May 18, 2024

By car, bike, and rail

WE'RE ON OUR WAY. Leaving my place early Friday morning but later than I intended gets me to Wil's place a scant 10 minutes late, at least by the standard of our agreed-upon pickup time. It's not really a problem though, and we are loaded up and rolling more-or-less when we planned.

It's about a 13.5 hour drive from home to my cousin's place outside St Louis, which gave us plenty of time for conversation. We've never spent so much time together as adults, and I enjoyed learning more about Wil's past, life history, and outlook on life. As you'd expect, our relationship now is quite different from what it was when we met thirty years ago, when Wil was a teenager and I was in my early thirties. I am enjoying getting to know him as an adult, and every day I am more impressed with the level, depth, breadth, and subtlety of his knowledge, thinking, and philosophy.

Wil is easy going, polite, and patient, all of which make him an excellent travel companion. We talk about his time in El Salvador, his immigration experience, his relationship with his parents and siblings, politics, life in general. The miles pass easily and quickly, despite passing through several patches of rain of which some are so heavy we slow to only 35 or 40 miles an hour. Thankfully those interludes are brief and most of the day we buzz along easily.

Somewhere in Illinois, a passing truck flicks off a small stone that makes a SMACK at the top of my windshield and cracks it, so when I get back home I'll need to have it repaired or replaced. Insurance will cover most, possibly all, of the cost. Such is life.

On arriving at cousin Susan's we're greeted by cousin Gwen, her sister, who lives a few minutes away. Last I heard Gwen was going to be out of town when we arrived, so it's a pleasant surprise to find her here after all. We spend a bit of time getting acquainted and settled in then head out for dinner at a local Indian place. The food is good and plentiful, leaving us enough left over to have lunch tomorrow.

After additional conversation back at Susan's, it's time to call it day.

Susan welcomed us warmly and made use feel at home.

Susan's cat Tiger is the friendliest, most easy-going cat I've ever had the pleasure of meeting.

Saturday morning we enjoy a lazy, leisurely breakfast then head out for some errands and sightseeing. Susan and Gwen want us to see Lafayette Square, a neighborhood in St. Louis featuring dozens of beautifully preserved or restored Victorian townhouses. According to Google:

Lafayette Park was dedicated in 1851 as the first public park in the City of St. Louis. ... The 30-acre park had been set aside from the St. Louis Common Grounds ...

Lafayette Park Conservancy

https://www.lafayettepark.orgLafayette Park Conservancy: Home

Welcome to St. Louis's historic Lafayette Park, over 185 years in the making. Come visit a true Victorian era ornamental park.

Description

Elegant Lafayette Square centers on leafy Lafayette Park, a popular setting for concerts and outdoor films, and baseball games played on a vintage-style field. The green space is surrounded by stately Victorian townhouses, with wine bars, relaxed coffee shops and Italian restaurants nearby.

As we wander through the Park, we happen to catch the start of one of the vintage rules baseball games played there. The rules date back to the 1860s, we are told by one player; the team names and uniforms are period-appropriate and add to the ambience and enjoyment.

Baseball played by the rules of 1860. All we need to complete the scene is a picnic hamper and a blanket spread in the shade of the magnificent oak tree in the park.

All four of us are baseball fans, so we watch and enjoy an inning or two before moving on. I sense this may become a regular part of Susan and Gwen's Saturday routine before long, and am secretly envious.

Victorian townhouses around Lafayette Square.

They're all either beautifully restored or amazingly well preserved.

After lunch Wil and I take our time getting ready for the 2.3 mile ride to the Kirkwood Amtrak station where we're due to catch the train to Kansas City. I've called Amtrak to confirm the boarding procedure but still have a little anxiety, so we want to arrive matters so that there's ample time to adjust as needed. Accordingly, we leave Susan's about an hour before train time just to be on the safe side.

There's a volunteer station attendant when we arrive who sets us at ease about the boarding process. There's also another couple already waiting with their bikes and gear, so we will have company at least partway.

Mike and Joan are on their first multi-day tour. They've picked a good one to warm up on.

Boarding goes smoothly for all four of us, and the train rolls out. After a visit to the cafe car for beverages, Wil and I each settle down to update our journals. (Wil's journal can be found here; I recommend it as good reading.)

When not writing or loading photos, I enjoy watching the countryside roll past the window. Missouri has had a lot of rain recently and the Missouri River is running high and fast.

Lots of water in the Missouri River at the moment, thanks to heavy rains in recent days. I hope there's no more in the forecast for the coming week.

The train is smooth, quiet, and relaxing. Our car is only about half full and, unlike the train from DC to Charlotte, the bikes are hanging in a rack at the back of our car. The car is a different style than what's used on The Carolinian train, more modern-seeming with roomier seating and in-car provisions for bikes.

A couple hours out from Kansas City I text cousin Alan, who along with his wife Elaine is graciously collecting us and putting us up for the night, to see about the chance of getting real Kansas City barbecue for dinner. He forwards a link to a convenient place and we put in requests, which he will pick up on his way to get us. Awesome! Thanks to you and Elaine for your hospitality and kindness.

Sunset through view blockers, shot through a hazy window of a fast-moving train.

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Today's ride: 2 miles (3 km)
Total: 2 miles (3 km)

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John PickettThe windshield is covered by the comprehensive part of your car insurance. My deductible is $50. Pretty painless.

Amtrak has been pretty good about bikes. My friend Corey took a train from Portland OR to Chicago. He had to box his bike but the Amtrak employees made it easy.

Ed and Mary had to abandon a short tour in Pennsylvania because of illness. The Amtrak employees helped them construct a long box for their tandem.

I took Amtrak home from Florida after my 2017 tour. I lifted my unloaded bike up to the man in the baggage car and that was that.

Good luck.
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