July 26, 2022
Day 8: Kununurra day 1
The hostel is full of seasonal workers who start early so I also got up early to get on with my very important tasks. The first of which was to go to Mirima National Park, just on the edge of town. They call it either Hidden Valley or the mini Bungles. I got there about 6:45 and checked the map of walking trails and planned the biggest loop I could (only about 4K).
I guess it’s similar to the bungle bungles in that you walk between rocks but the formations are quite different.
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They seemed to have put in new stairs where it could previously have been a scramble so it was very easy. It’s a one way track and I overtook two ladies on it who seemed to be doing more photography than walking. There were some Aboriginal handprints in an overhang and then a further climb up to a breathtaking view back to the east, I think.
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There were lots of birds out including exotic WA species like the rainbow lorikeet. The next view point, maybe north west was also amazing. Then the path wound down a crack in the rocks and along a sandy valley to some more rock art next to a really striking white cliff.
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The path had dropped down further than I realised so had to climb a set of stairs back up and over a rock ridge to get back to the start. I popped up over this ridge just as four grey nomads were standing at the bottom intersection discussing how confused they were about where the tracks went. I didn’t think it was that hard but I tried to explain it to them. Two of them turned around, and two of them kept going up a side track, which I followed leading to another incredible view, of a caravan park and industrial estate. Those grey nomads definitely chose the least interesting path.
It was getting very busy by the time I got back to the carpark around 8. I had a good chat to Gus from Omafiets in the carpark. Poor Chris has covid, but Gus is going to install a tubeless tyre on a DT Swiss wheel (rated to 180kg, which means I could carry roughly 50L of water by my calcs), and sell it to me at cost, and ship up as quickly as possible. They’ll also look into warranty refunds for the Hunt wheel. This seemed like a good enough deal that I didn’t bother calling any more shops in Perth.
I went for a ride down to the lakeside and had a coffee (not as good as yesterday) from the cafe in yet another caravan park. By the time I got back and did some laundry, Gus had sent me the invoice for the wheel, he’d also installed a rotor and not charged me for labour. Mo, who I bought the bike off, then packed it up real small so that shipping is only as much as the wheel ($300 each). It’s nominally 3 days with a courier so we’ll see.
Then I got picked up to go on a cruise all the way up river to the dam wall with a bunch of old people. I should probably stop using that description, just assume tourists I mention are older unless otherwise specified.
The Ord is dammed again at Kununurra, so it’s a big weir all the way to the Lake Argyle wall. It’s 55k one way and the fastest I’ve travelled in quite a while but it still took all afternoon.
We stopped for afternoon tea at a camp they’ve got set up along the river. You could walk up a bit of a dry waterfall to get a feeling for being in the middle of nowhere, but only me and one other person did. The rest just tucked into pawpaw, scones and date cake which all were admittedly really delicious.
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The guide was really great. Such a weird job to talk so much at people without really having a connection. I guess if you liked doing that you wouldn’t be cycling long distances by yourself. I sat next to a couple from Perth who were really lovely. Then they dropped me back at the hostel.
All in all a super photogenic and productive day, just keep all your fingers and toes crossed for a swift continental crossing for my new wheel, please!
Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 605 km (376 miles)
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