September 23, 2022
Day 67: Mingenew to Watheroo
It was not as cold, or maybe not as wet, or both, last night so my tent was only bit wet too and bottom not all over. I packed up and went to the bakery for a coffee and pasty which I enjoyed in the sun.
The road climbed up out of Mingenew, then flattened out a bit. I stopped at Yandanooka, which was a soldier settlement town. Like most soldier settlement schemes, the farms weren’t particularly viable so there’s nothing there now except a hall which had a sign saying: home of the Yandy B&S and CWA meetings. Slightly different vibe at those two activities I imagine. The B&S stopped running in 2001. I don’t know why exactly. Surely young people haven’t got it much more sensible.
I also stopped at Arrino, another ghost town although this one still had a grain depot. I can’t believe how many depots there are. I’ve been past 7 since Northampton and they all seem to be working.
I also can’t believe how many shires there are. I understand why people are opposed to amalgamation, but honestly, today Mingenew, Three springs, Carnamah and Coorow all had their own shire. I think they might run to the coast but they’re very small north -south. Surely they don’t all have their own road maintenance programs?
After about 50k, I reached three springs and went to the IGA for some more veggies and fruit. I ran into the couple I saw at the lookout near Wooramel, the ones who were taking 4.5 months from Kununurra. I had an apple and coconut water and kept riding to Carnamah, which was only 23k.
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I didn’t really need to buy lunch but there was a well advertised cafe in an old church with tables outside basically in a park. How could I resist? I went in and they had absolutely none of the roughly five vegetarian options on the menu but they did have a quiche in the cabinet. They also had no iced coffee, I’m not sure why. So I got a cappuccino and it was easily the worst coffee I’ve had all the trip. The quiche was average as well. I also was looking directly across the road to where there was a cafe in the post office as well. I should’ve tried it.
After the disappointing cafe experience, I decided against going into the museum and headed on for Coorow. It was a delightful afternoon for riding. The forecast for tomorrow is for showers and strong winds. To meet the accommodation and train bookings I’ve made I need to at least be in Moora, 90k from Coorow, tomorrow. I felt I should’ve hustled more today and I could’ve ridden into Watheroo, to be only 40k from Moora. I decided if I could get to Coorow by 3, I’d keep going. It was fast and flat to coorow and I arrived at 3:04. There didn’t seem to be much in Coorow except shop and a closed pub and a collection of old machinery so I rode on. I find it hard to resist riding on, in good weather.
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Obviously, the road got hillier and the wind stronger after Coorow. I stopped to read the signs at another ghost town with a grain depot, Marchagee.
I felt reasonably confident I’d make it to the free camping at Watheroo pub but I’m not really sure why as it took me 3 hours to do the 52k and I rode in just as the sun was touching the horizon.
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Watheroo has some houses, an old shop and a park. I thought it was only the pub, I think cause it doesn’t have its own shire. There was only one caravan parked up on a fairly uninspiring carpark outside the pub but at least there was one. I’d feel weird just me camped out there. Another van pulled in as I was setting up. It is mosquito central. I sprayed myself with repellant but they were still all over me as I was setting up my tent. I hustled straight into the pub which was heaving although it has a quiet dining room. I’ve been a total credit card tourist today, have bought all my meals. Lucky I’m carrying so much food!
Today's ride: 150 km (93 miles)
Total: 4,635 km (2,878 miles)
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