Day 45: Cane River to Yannarie

September 1, 2022

I slept very well on the sandy river bed last night. The last time I camped in a river bed like this was on the Burdekin River in North Queensland in April when I was looking for remote gravel roads to prepare for this trip!

I had set my alarm for 5. It was still completely dark. I find it hard to convince myself that it will be light by the time I’m ready with the result that I definitely could’ve ridden out at least 15 minutes earlier. Still, I watched the sun rise for several minutes as I waited for a car on the highway. It sounded like it was just about to come over the bridge but it was not that close.

The road wound around the flood plain of the Cane River until climbing gradually out of it. I passed the Onslow turn off and the mediocre campsite there after about an hour and was happy I’d camped in the river.

The road often headed for hills but always skirted them

The wind was stronger today than it was yesterday. Still an easterly so it was blowing largely across me as I headed south which slowed things up a little. After nearly 4 hours I reached Nanutarra Roadhouse. It is thriving, particularly compared to Fortescue River. It does have a better location, before the Tom Price/Karajini turnoff and further from anything else. But they’ve also clearly invested loads more in it. I snuck into the caravan park to fill up on water and there was actual grass not a blanket of burrs.

After my meal, I realised they had the next map down, the Midlands of WA. So I bought that plus an ice cream and a Powerade. I clearly haven’t learnt to exercise any restraint after Roebuck Plains cause I again gave myself stomach cramps. Must’ve been the Powerade. Luckily cycling helps the digestion, right, so I cycled off over the Ashburton River. What helped most was that the road turned mostly to the east so the wind was mostly a tailwind.

They’ve kept the old bridge so I had a pedestrian crossing but it didn’t really go anywhere so I ended up picking my way on some sketchy gravel tracks back to the road

This straight stretch of highway is designated landing strip for the flying doctor if they need it. I’ve only ever seen this on the Nullarbor before I think

With the wind I had to put in very little effort so I was just rolling my legs around and gradually not feeling so stuffed.

Every time I see a white bark tree I get I am australian in my head: I paint the ghostly gums. It’s quite annoying.

A more obscure song that comes into my head quite often is by Darren Hanlon about his Uncle Vic and Aunty Phyllis, including the line: the soil it got redder. I saw a red sand dune and these red rocks

I had been slightly concerned I wouldn’t make it to Yannarie Rest Area tonight but with this wind I did the 70k here faster than the 60k to Nanutarra this morning. This rest area is so big. I reckon there’s at least 30, mostly caravans, here. I’m camped down near the dry river. I walked up to the toilets and bins at the entrance just after dark and nearly got lost on the way back. Someone near me was running a generator but has luckily turned it off. I could not be bothered going to look for water which is nearby, according to Vince’s blog.

Today's ride: 130 km (81 miles)
Total: 3,255 km (2,021 miles)

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Ben Noonewoohoo! go clare!
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