Last night I checked my tyres after the broken glass covered cycle paths and found a thorn in my front tyre. I deliberated then pulled it out on the reasoning that I’d rather change a tyre in the caravan park than on the road. But really, who knows how long it had been there and it probably would’ve stayed there happily to Karratha. It was a tiny hole that I patched but put a new tube in to let the other one dry out a bit. There’s a lot of sealant residue on it but it seems good still.  

Anyway, it reminded me that I hadn’t got to the bike shop to get another second spare tube. I always like to carry two. Seeing as I had a short day, I decided to wait for the shops to open. That meant I also got a sleep in and a coffee, so didn’t take too much convincing. 

I didn’t get up til 6:30! The motorbike guy next door was already packed and ready to go. I rolled down the road to the TAFE campus, where they have a cafe and had a quite good coffee and breakfast burrito with lots of cheese and mayo. Yum. It’s wear it purple day and all the staff were wearing purple and someone was painting a zebra crossing rainbow when I arrived. I’m not sure how into it the students were but I think it’s a definite improvement in terms of visibility from when I was at school. 

Then I went to the sports shop, it was a very similar vibe to the one in Kununurra. He didn’t have any tubes my size but I got another patch kit. I also went to coles, seeing as I was there, and got some fruit and double stuffed Oreos and chips which were both on half price special. 

Then I got the hell out of Hedland. Actually it had been a nice morning but I was still pretty happy to leave. Unfortunately leaving meant another 30k or road train highway and two more rail overpasses with no cycle lanes. 

Heart

1

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

It was very peaceful riding down the North West Coastal Highway. The wind was a little bit cross but not nearly as strong as it had been the last couple of days, and seemed to die off once I left Port Hedland as well. I reached the Yule River Rest Area which is a nice little area next to the sandy river bank with a good picnic table but no toilets. There were three caravans still there so I had to trek away a bit to pee. 

Once I got back to my picnic table, and started eating my newly acquired apple, a guy from one of the caravans came over. He offered me a top up of water but I was carrying heaps in case there’s none at Whim creek tonight. He bikepacks around Newcastle on a surly karate monkey. It was nice to talk to someone who also rides. He offered water like: I get what you’re doing and I’m here to help out if you need, rather than like: I have to help the crazy lady.  He also had a really cute collie. They’re waiting for some car parts to arrive in Port Hedland. 

The Yule River is mostly dry. There’s not a lot along the road. I stopped in a station driveway to tighten my handlebar grips. 

Heart

4

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

I reached the Peawah Rest Area about 1:30 and listened to a guy berate his wife as they tried to park their caravan park in the shade. He came over later to ask if I needed any water or a cold drink but I refused on principle. I’m sure he felt cut. 

There were a few problems with my late start.  First was I needed to find motivation at 2:30 to keep going. The second was the cross wind was picking up. The third was that there were heaps of cars hooning around. I think it must’ve been knock off time on Friday and everyone was hightailing it out of Port Hedland for somewhere nicer.

I saw a light plane flying around near a station, I’m not sure whether it was doing any work, it seemed to just be doing loops. The shoulder wasn’t great. I checked my mirror, saw a caravan approaching but it was on a long straight with nothing coming north so went back to looking at the plane and then suddenly realised a 4wd was overtaking the caravan. That was not enjoyable on a tiny shoulder. Later on I saw a cop car pull someone over, presumably for speeding so maybe this is a usual Friday afternoon activity. 

After a while something strange happened. The ground started rising upward in a noticeable hill, the first since the Gibb river road! 

Heart

2

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

Actually I did cause there was a headwind. I’m hoping that was just cause of the hills and not a sign that there’ll be a westerly tomorrow. There were lots more Sturt desert peas around in the hills. Soon I’ll find somewhere to lean my bike and take a photo. 

I pulled into Whim Creek pub around 4:15. Its nestled under some hills, potentially an old mine? It’s closed but you can camp in the carpark, and there’s a fuel pump and a toilet. One of these is more useful to me than the other. 

Heart

3

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

Heart

0

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply

I mooched around for a while wondering where to camp. Someone else had setup down the bottom but it was all really just a carpark and not great for tents. I also didn’t want to be anywhere near on the turning circle for road trains pulling in for fuel. Eventually I found a little spot on a driveway into the back of the pub yard where I could get my tent pegs in. I was feeling a bit weird about the whole thing, particularly when a car pulled in towing another on a rope. What even is this place? They were Aboriginal and not speaking English but I could guess the gist of what they were calling out was “hurry up in the toilet kids” before they pulled back out quickly. Then the caretaker came wandering around doing his nightly rounds and I felt a bit better about it. He told me the Dutch couple had been here last night. I forgot to say that Mum and Dad met the Dutch couple in Port Hedland. They’re currently a day ahead of me but will soon be several days once I stop in Cossack. They have to be in Perth three weeks before me.