Day 38: Pardoo to South Hedland

August 25, 2022

Another unintentional imperial century.

I woke up with my alarm at 5, but still didn’t get going til 6:20. I’m beginning to think it’s not the porridge that slows me down in the morning.

Anyway, it was lovely to be cycling early in the morning. There were a few low rocky hills around Pardoo then it flattened out to low shrubby plains again. The road was heading a little bit south but the wind has died down and there was only a little cross element, mostly a tailwind.

The green distance signs lied to me today, they’d put them 10k early: 50k to Pardoo instead of 40 and 100k to Port Hedland. Luckily I wasn’t struggling or I would’ve been very upset to see the second 50k to Pardoo sign. The shrubs started to clear out to grassy plains.

I was excited to see the first red Pilbara hills in the distance

I made it to the De Grey Rest Area about 10.

The Pilbara Rest areas are fancier than others - this is what iron ore royalties get you

With the luxury of a picnic table, I made a peanut butter and banana wrap. Leaving the rest area, I realised I could see powerlines, for the first time since Wyndham - Kununurra, and these were bigger than 66kV, and a railway line. Such a lot of infrastructure!

I also saw my first wild Sturt desert peas. As I approached the Marble Bar turn off, I could see the iron ore road trains turning in and out.

Less than 500m after the turn off I encountered an even bigger truck

The four carriage iron ore road trains are a bit freaky. It’s not just the trucks, it’s also that everything else on the road is trying to overtake them. I got off the road whenever one was behind me so it was a bit slower than usual. Although I did have stretches of up to 10k without seeing any.

About 20k out of Port Hedland I seemed to be going into a cross/head wind. It was like a northerly suddenly appeared. I don’t know how that works. It was also getting into the industrial areas outside Hedland and the shoulder was narrow. It was not enjoyable.

I got stuck waiting for two massive iron ore trains

I stopped at another nice rest area and considered my destination for the day. Mum and Dad had said the caravan park in Port hedland looked nicer than the one in south hedland, but further from the highway. It was only 2pm and I knew if I went to the South Hedland one I wouldn’t be bothered going to see the actual beach so I decided to go to Port hedland. There was even a bike path.

I thought this sign was funny as it implied there was a path to Broome. I didn’t realise the path to Port Hedland was also a joke

There was a horizon power crew installing a transformer and they’d blocked the path but they helped me round the truck. The cycle path was lovely and wide, two lanes. Then it was a cement path over a rail bridge.

Great view of the Rio Tinto salt works from the bridge

Then the path just disappeared. I was left on a 90kph road with very little shoulder and still the road trains. I thought about turning around but then I’d have to go past the workers again. I soldiered on into the wind. It was definitely the worst part of the ride so far. I pulled off to let a roadtrain go past, realised the shoulder was full of broken glass and did a little a bit of swearing to myself. At the first available road, I turned off and found a bike path had reappeared. I followed the road around the edge of the salt flats to the caravan park which was full! They couldn’t even fit a little tent in for “legal reasons”. I came outside, did a bit more swearing then went in again and bought a cold drink and splice.

I enjoyed them while looking over Cooke Point at low tide

I did a little self guided tour of the waterfront but didn’t feel the need to get any closer to the port and trucks and trains than this

Having sufficiently calmed down, i headed back to the road of doom back to South Hedland. With the wind behind me it took all of ten minutes to get back to the bridge, which was not enough time for any naughty words. I navigated the horizon power crew, then followed the bike path through a minefield of broken glass to the south hedland road. This bike path went all the way to south hedland, over another railway bridge to the Black Rock Tourist park. It costs $50 a site which I think is crazy, but obviously had no back up options. Seeing as I was splashing cash, I also bought some expensive chocolate to compensate for not getting to the supermarket today.

The guy on the site next to me is riding a motorbike and leant me his hammer when he saw me struggling. The showers were very nice and I don’t know that the pizza was better than Barn hill but it and garlic bread sorted out my calorie deficit for the day.

Today's ride: 150 km (93 miles)
Total: 2,667 km (1,656 miles)

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