June 20, 2015
Day 10: New words and distances
It's weird to say that I am gassed after 35 miles but thats about the size of it. It's not from my aforementioned sickness (although that may play a small part) but it's because I rode mostly on dirt roads all day. It takes more effort, the grades are usually steeper, and it often takes more concentration to avoid things like rocks.
Still, I have no complaints. Today was another beautiful day. It was cooler and a little overcast but in a way that made it nice, it was different.
I also learned a new word, regresso. It means return and I learned it from a man on the outskirts of Burgos, while I was trying to find my way back on the route in an unclear area. You see, you can't say, "donde esta camino de Santiago (where is the Camino de Santiago) because that means where is the road to Santiago, and I'm apparently the only idiot doing it backwards.
So before my new word I would say Camino de Santiago but pantomime the other way, by pointing frantically and saying names of towns to the east, which they probably can't understand because of my pathetic pronunciation. But this guy, outside Burgos was different, "Aaaah," he said. "Regresso."
"Yes," I said, "regresso."
After that I was set. Several times I said, "donde esta Camino de Santiago regresso," and for good measure I did a triple rolling of the "R" to show I know what I am doing.
"Ahh, regresso," they say, and usually explain with words I only partly understand, but they always point so it's okay. Besides, sometimes I just want to confirm on the right road. I learned it matters more in the afternoon, because apparently salmon on The Camino mostly run early in the day.
But now I'm past Burgos, which I blew through quickly, so no big cities for a while.
Other than that I must say I love these European distances. As I said, I was gassed and just needed a place to stay and something to eat.
"Does this town have an Alberge (pronounced AL-ber-gay)?" I asked a local.
"No, but there is one in the next town."
My heart sank. Usually, by instinct in America, The Next Town is 10 or 20 miles.
"How far is the next town?" I asked.
"3 kilometers."
Aaah, that's more like it.
Here are some pics of the day. As promised I am inlcuding a few from last nights digs.
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Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 347 miles (558 km)
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