Day 8: Touring Beaufort

April 23, 2017

My original plan for today was to do a 40 mile round trip detour to Hunting Island State Park to see a lighthouse and a pristine beach. But the weather is so hot and humid that I'm in no mood to do such a long ride. Plus, most of the park facilities are closed for reconstruction after being destroyed by Hurricane Matthew last October.

Instead I will just be a tourist in Beaufort. It's a small city (population 13,000) but there's much to see.

Waterfront in downtown Beaufort, South Carolina.

I had a nice lazy day wandering around town. Back and forth in the waterfront park. Back and forth on Bay Street. Through the historic neighborhoods, etc.

Beaufort attracts many tourist visitors but it has no high rise hotels. Most visitors come for the day from nearby vacation destinations such as Hilton Head, Savannah, and Charleston. The town is buzzing with tourists, but not crowded.

The biggest houses are all bed and breakfasts now. The town has many tourists, but it's not crowded. No giant parking lots or parade of tour buses.

Beaufort was an "elite center for low country planters". I think that means that nearby wealthy plantation owners built winter town homes in Beaufort.

St. Helena Anglican church has a large walled compound. Founded in 1712, one of the oldest churches in the U.S. The original church was built on the present site in 1724 and appears today as it did in 1842 following its final expansion.

Surprisingly, the nation's oldest church is not on the Atlantic Coast. The oldest surviving church in the U.S. is San Miguel mission in Santa Fe, New Mexico, built 1610-1626.

I had lunch at a busy tourist restaurant. The wait was very long but I needed the air conditioning.

The only traffic congestion in town is at the intersection of Bay Street (downtown commercial street) and US 21 Business (main highway into town). Both roads are 2-lane without enough space for turn lanes. US 21 Business continues onto the bridge to the islands. Traffic really backed up when the drawbridge opened. The drawbridge opened several times during the day.

Former battery that defended Beaufort from invaders. Long before the bridge was built.

A large portion of Beaufort is historic structures. In the 1700's Beaufort was a rival to Savannah and Charleston. But now Beaufort is much smaller than those cities. Understandable because Beaufort is not on a major river. It could never have a deep water port.

I had fun taking pictures of the houses in Beaufort even though the sun angle was seldom flattering.

First African Baptist Church, founded in 1865.

Beaufort is a Marine Corps town through and through. A large portion of Marines went to basic training at Marine Corps Base Parris island which is 5 miles south of town. And 5 miles north of town is Marine Corps Air Station Beaufort.

I watched the Marine Corp Band unload from a fancy tour bus in casual clothes to set up the stage. Another team unloaded a cargo truck. An hour later the Marines came back in dress uniform for a 2 hour concert in the park. It seemed like a couple hundred people drove in to town just to see the concert.

I did not envy the Marine Band members sitting in the sun while wearing heavy dress uniforms. They played a mostly classical repertoire. Few patriotic or military songs. The musicianship was superb.

The Marine Corps Band played a 2 hour concert in the park. Those uniforms must be hot!

Beaufort has been a military town since the 19th century. Interestingly, Beaufort was captured by the Union early during the civil war and remained in Union hands throughout the war. The National Cemetery was founded in 1863 during the Union occupation.

West of downtown Bay Street actually has a bay view.

A replica of Christopher Columbus' sailing ship Niña is currently docked at the marina. I didn't pay for a tour. It's apparently built with the same materials and techniques as was used in the 15th century.

Also docked at the marina is a river cruise boat which is here for the day. A crew member told me the boat is on a 7 day cruise from Charleston to Jacksonville. I looked it up and found that the 100 passenger boat stops at Beaufort, Hilton Head Island, Savannah, Sapelo Island, Saint Simons Island, Jekyll Island, and Amelia Island.

This river boat is on a cruise from Charleston to Jacksonville.

The sky became increasingly cloudy during the afternoon. The sun wasn't as blazing hot but the humidity was still oppressive. High of 86F as usual.

Waterfront park and the bridge to Hunting Island.

I'm well rested for tomorrow's 70 mile ride to Charleston and eager to leave Beaufort. The humidity is just too much.

Distance: 15.6 mi. (25 km)
Climbing: 168 ft. (51 m)
Average Speed: 6.8 mph (10.9 km/h)

Today's ride: 16 miles (26 km)
Total: 270 miles (435 km)

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