Day 23: To Pocomoke, City, MD

May 8, 2017

Today I have a strong northwest headwind but it should still be an easy day. My front tire was soft in the morning. I pumped it up and it was still fine at the end of the day. Very slow leak. On the road at 8:45.

Today turned out to be old house day. I must have stopped 2 dozen times to take pictures of old houses.

Today my route is west of US 13, closer to Chesapeake Bay than the Atlantic Ocean. Low traffic most of the time. Beautiful quiet country roads.

The combination of quiet country roads and alternating forest and farms makes for a delightful bike ride.

This is typical of the houses I saw today.

As usual there was a tiny town every 4 or 5 miles. Belle Haven. Craddockville. Pungoteague. Onancock. Tazley. Parksley. Bloxom. Hallwood. Withams. Miona.

Parksley, VA is one of the largest towns on today's route.

Starting in Parksley my route parallels a railroad track. First railroad track I've seen since before the Outer Banks. Another ordinary thing that has turned out to be a rare novelty during this tour.

The only grain elevators I saw on this tour.

The smallest towns are withering away as the number of farm, fishing, and timber jobs steadily decreases. There is almost no tourist economy. I'm surprised there aren't more Bed and Breakfasts capitalizing on the rural tranquility.

I appreciate seeing farms because they have been so rare during this tour. But I don't appreciate smelling big concentrated animal feeding operations. This was the only big indoor feedlot I saw during this tour.

Fortunately big animal confinement operations were rare and seldom smelled.

The houses were the main attraction today. Same as yesterday, nearly everything seems to be built before 1900.

It was fun to pass through a string of tiny villages. It still reminds me of the rural development pattern in New England.

The population density is low but there is a surprisingly complex network of paved roads. It seems like every road is suitable for cycling. I stopped often to confirm which road is the correct route using the RideWithGPS smart phone app. I'm not carrying paper maps of any kind.

This was the first railroad track I've seen in a long time.

I could only go 8 mph when there was an open field to my left. But I could go 10 mph when trees were to my left. Progress was slow but today's distance isn't super long.

I like country roads that have no painted center line and unmowed vegetation growing to the edge.

Today was mostly sunny but chilly. High of 64F with a brisk northwest wind all day. I wore tights all day. Humidity was an astonishingly low 30% thanks to the inland wind. Dry air is the silver lining when a cold front passes through.

I'm still finding the DelMarVa peninsula to be enchanting and a much appreciated change from the usual forests and swamps.

The terrain is very gently rolling. Just enough elevation change to keep it from becoming monotonous. Alternating between high and dry forests and the occasional low swamp.

Many places had graves alongside the highway. Often in the front yard of a house. I had never seen that custom before.

This was the *only* irrigated corn field I saw during this tour.

I missed a left turn and ended up connecting to US 13 at the Virginia/Maryland state line. That's one way to get a sign picture. My intended back road probably didn't have a "welcome" sign at the state line.

Gas station at the Virginia/Maryland state line.

I've pedaled through Maryland twice before.

Traffic was very heavy on US 13 for 3 miles to the US 13 Business exit which goes into Pocomoke City. It has a wide paved shoulder but it was a jarring contrast to the quiet country roads I had been on all day.

Pocomoke City seems to be the transition point between north and south. It has a large African American population. Looking at the buildings in town, it must have boomed from about 1880 to 1930. It's by far the biggest inland town I saw on the DelMarVa peninsula but it is not thriving. I imagine Salisbury has become the regional center.

Pocomoke City has several motels to choose from, all outside of town along US 13. I got a $70 room at America's Best Value Inn. Arrived before 4:30 so it wasn't a long day on the road.

There was a brief thunderstorm overnight. For the first time during this tour I turned on the heat in the motel room. This was the only place on the tour to have sulfury tap water.

Distance: 53.6 mi. (85.8 km)
Climbing: 438 ft. (133 m)
Average Speed: 9.4 mph (15 km/h)

Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 1,065 miles (1,714 km)

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