Winds continue but we press on…Japan Naval Underground Bunker Museum
We feel so lucky to have a month to explore Okinawa. There is much for us to learn here. We are learning that Okinawa is a distinct society with many similarities but many characteristics that set this place and its people apart from what we know. Geographically, Okinawa and its Islands are separated from the rest of Japan by a considerable distance. We see an infrastructure which is building a positive future, yet we have seen more poverty with a much lower population than the rest of Japan. Yet, on Okinawa we continue to experience the same warm hospitality, curiosity and joy that we have enjoyed from local people throughout Japan. A proud, hard working people with an admirable sense of integrity and duty to their country and their families is a common thread, no matter what part of Japan we are in. Having grown up in Canada, we knew little of the experiences the Okinawan people endured during WWII. We do know that Okinawa is the only place in Japan that sustained a land invasion and Okinawa was occupied by American forces until 1971, losing their sovereignty. During this time period the American dollar was the main currency, cars drove on the right side of the road compared to the left side in the rest of Japan and Okinawans needed a passport to travel to Japan. Post 1971 Okinawa once again regained Japanese sovereignty. To present day, 70% of American forces in Japan are stationed on Okinawa.
Today we woke up, back in Naha ready to get out and explore more of this island. The winds will continue today with gusts up to 56 km and as fate has the last word, the winds have reversed from yesterday…which means, we will once again have a headwind. Our goal is to visit the Japan Naval Underground Bunker Museum and then ride across the island to a place on the coast where we will stay for a few nights.
Our room at Rembrandt Styles which opened this year. Once again we have the colours of the ocean as a feature in our room. Loved this comfy couch by the window to relax.
Baseball is a sport Japanese people are passionate about. We were surprised to learn that this team/league is restricted to men who are 70 or older, and that includes the coach.
You wouldn’t know that Barry and I can be somewhat quiet and shy by nature when not travelling. Here is Mary Ellen surrounded by fellows from the 70+ baseball team.
We have made two attempts to visit the Japanese Naval Underground tunnels. Now that we have made the decision to return to Naha for another night we have finally been able to visit the tunnels.
Members of the Japanese Navy Corps of Engineers dug a tunnel complex for the Navy’s Okinawa Headquarters bunker in 1944. The semi-circular tunnels were 450 metres in length at that time. The tunnels served as underground headquarters, with a capacity for 4000 soldiers, and w to help them survive the American bombardment and long drawn out fighting. After the war the tunnels remained untouched for many years. The remains of about 2400 people were collected and 300 metres of tunnels were restored and opened to the public in 1970.
On the top floor of the museum was a photo exhibit showing how the Okinawan people suffered during the invasion. Being overwhelmed during sustained attacks, boys and girls, under the age of 17 were thrust into battle with little more than the clothes on .their back.
The Battle of Okinawa was often referred to the Typhoon of Steel. It was one of the largest and deadliest Battle in the Pacific of WWII. It is estimated that the total civilian loss, including those conscripted into labour or militia work numbered around 150,000. This represents 1/3 of the pre war population of Okinawa.
This is a poster at the museum that warns the public of the dangers of Habu…poisonous and aggressive snakes of Okinawa.
This is the room where the final commander of the Japanese naval forces, Rear Admiral Ota and many of his officers committed suicide. He also wrote a telegram to the high command (not based in Okinawa) in which he commended the Okinawan people for their cooperation and self-sacrifice and appealed for special consideration for them.
Rear Admiral Ota despaired that Okinawa people, the elderly, woman and children had been forced to fight or act as shields for suicide attackers, with often no weapons, . In Japan’s history this had never been done before. He valiantly tried to get support for them and he worried for their future. As well, many died of starvation as the Japanese Forces stockpiled food resources for their soldiers. The toll on Okinawa, being the only place in Japan with a land based attack, and the subsequent lack of support from the Japan high command as reported by Rear Admiral Ota and mistreatment by their own soldiers paints a very tragic, sad picture of the suffering of these people of Okinawa.
Upon leaving the tunnels we were left with a real sadness over the tragedy of war.
The architecture in Okinawa is totally different from the rest of Japan. The traditional wood construction of homes and buildings you usually see in Japan would not survive the elements in Okinawa
