Staying in Hell - Six Wheels Through Japan Part 2 - CycleBlaze

November 22, 2023

Staying in Hell

We headed out, sorry to leave Beppu, but ready to head out for  our ride across Kyushu. Ultimately we want to ride to Mt. Aso, an active volcano. We made our way through small back roads of Beppo and found a great Ramen restaurant for lunch. 

The Beppu Tower was built in 1956 to boost tourism, but is now used as a reception tower for TV. It dominates the skyline at 328 feet tall and is quite a presence at night illuminated with red lights.
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When we arrived by ferry 2 nights ago, the tower shone through the darkness.

Manhole covers in Beppu are lovely and colourful.
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Charmaine RuppoltNice to see colors on the manhole cover. :)
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1 year ago
We have finally found a ramen place that we love. It was so good and worth the wait. We also love that they were playing great jazz.
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Mary Ellen’s ramen choice is their regular ramen, with slices of pork, that the restaurant is known for.
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Barry’s ramen shows well the luscious frothy broth which is a sign of good ramen. His had pork belly, soy cooked eggs, etc. Delicious.
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A great stop for lunch, Karume Taiho Ramen.
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We will certainly watch for this restaurant’s other locations as we travel around Kyushu.
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Our ride out of Beppu to Oita is delightful as we are riding directly alongside the sea on a wide paved bike route. The busy highway is safely separated from us.This bustling seaport is very interesting.
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Fishing nets hung to dry.
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As often happens to us, our time exploring meant that we were making slow progress forward.   But, we both agreed, that this was probably because we were not ready to leave Beppu. After our incredible time yesterday in the historic area of Beppu up in the hills, we decided to turn around and find accommodation at a Japanese Inn. Our goal is also to find one of the historic onsens and have an experience that defines this area of Japan. 

On our ride up to Beppu, we were following a steep curvy narrow road and we could feel the curious gaze of a cat from above. The soulful and curious gaze of this old guy won us over.
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Oh yes, we are back in the steamy and curious otherworldliness of Beppu.
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This area of Beppu has onsens on every corner and more. This one is a few doors away from the Guesthouse where we will be staying.
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We have reached our destination, Minshuku Hiromiya. We will have a traditional Japanese style room sleeping on futons. We have read great things about this place, due to the hospitality of the woman who owns it
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We loved that she immediately started moving furniture in her reception area to give our trikes a place to stay.

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The water from the hot springs is so therapeutic and having it run through straw is beneficial as well.
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Choosing which Onsen to go to is a challenge as there are so many. Our host recommended Hyotan Onsen due to its long history and multiple pools with different properties and the opportunity to have hot sand treatments as well.
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First thing you do at any onsen, is to take off your shoes and put them in a locker. While walking around the onsen, you wear sandals that are provided. This is standard procedure whenever you enter an establishment or business in Japan. This includes stores…I went to a change room to try on some clothes, and I left my shoes outside and put on sandals they provided.
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The half length drapes are a way to identify an onsen. This is where Barry and I part ways to go into our onsens. There are still some Onsens where men and women bathe together. This one offers separate baths, which we prefer.
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Rich FrasierMary Ellen - please excuse my stupid question. When you’re in the baths, what (if anything) do you wear?
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1 year ago
This lucky hot spring water cooks the eggs and we each had one.
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Charmaine RuppoltMakes good use of the hot spring water, to cook the eggs! :)
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1 year ago
I enjoyed a pool like this where the water streams down through the straw. It had cooling properties.
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A lounging area to relax after you are finished with the Onsen.
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We each paid 940¥, about $8. We had an amazing experience. In my (ladies) onsen, there were about 8 hot pools each with different properties in the water. They were indoors and outdoors. There were cooling pools, a very hot sauna (lasted 2 minutes), a waterfall pool to use for massaging your back and shoulders…..an incredible experience.
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A photo from the internet showing the waterfall bath. In the men’s bath there were 18 of the waterfall spigots. When I first went in a father and his two young sons were bathing there. The kids were playing with an inflatable boat that they were trying to paddle along in the pool. It was a real challenge for them as the boat would quickly fill with water. When the father saw me they bailed the water out and left.
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Hyotan Onsen gave us an experience we will never forget. So glad we mutually agreed that we needed to return to this part of Beppu again before we headed off.
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This sign outlines the cost to rent a private onsen for a family or small group. Barry and I used the public baths here.
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Paths to the private family onsens.
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A shrine at the parking lot of the Onsen.
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Well, it finally happened. We met another couple who are cycle touring in Japan, Jan and Naemi. Jan is from Toronto and Naemi is from France. They are staying at the same Japanese Inn where we are staying. Incredible.
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Today's ride: 25 km (16 miles)
Total: 1,026 km (637 miles)

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