The Clement Hotel in Yatahawa is a throw back to more gentile times. It is part of the JR Clement chain which was rebranded and most of their hotels are now quite modern. Like all Clement Hotels it is located at the train station (JR =Japan Rail). The age of this hotel and their their staff, more senior in age, offered impeccable service.
When we arrived they ushered us into the lobby while still riding, found us a secure spot and then camouflaged them with a divider. Newer hotels are now in this area giving them lots of competition, but Clement is still busy.
Uwajima is known for Bull Sumo, an event where two bulls are in the ring locking their horns in combat in a style like human Sumo wrestlers. This tradition has been in effect for centuries. The winner is the one that outstays the other. The loser is often one who loses interest and wanders off.
We didn’t see a Bull Sumo fight but we were intrigued by the community’s passion for it and its interesting history. Here is a link to an interesting article about Bull Sumo: ihcsacafe-en.oh sa.or.jp/new
The work of a bull’s handler is a tough job. They must be in great shape and strong enough to handle the bull. There are several handlers per bull who take turns throughout the fight. This manhole cover shows the handlers working alongside the bull.
Cemeteries are fascinating in Japan. They can be a family plot in a farm field, between houses or others, like this one, are built into the cliff or hill wherever they can. This one was terraced into the steep hill alongside the Temple.
Christmas is coming and we are seeing decorations everywhere, stores and restaurants are featuring menus you can preorder. This Convenience Store has gotten in the spirit and decorated parts of the store and has a mouth watering display of the special cakes you can preorder.
This region of Shikoku has a booming business of growing mandarins…from huge operations, to family farms and solo plantings in the yard. These Mandarin trees were growing throug the railing. One could pick a mandarin as you ride by.
Fascinating watching the farmers harvest the mandarins. Due to the terrain, mandarin trees are planted high on the sloops and this single track is installed all through these hills to facilitate the collection of the fruit.
A bird’s eye view of the orchards and single track for transporting the mandarins from on high with a view of Kyushu in the distance. It is hard to show this in photos, but every available spot has mandarin trees growing.
We started the ride today at sea level and had some hefty climbs to get to this point shown above. What was wonderful was the continuous 7 km steep descent with thrilling curves all the way to Yattahawa and our ferry waiting to take us to Beppu on Kyushu.
Why are there mammoths made of straw standing in the field. Well, we don’t know…but why not?
The ferry is beautifully furnished -in places it feels more like a cruise ship. It feels cosy as the design features smaller areas rather than the typical large areas on our ferries. We liked these chairs which reclined and had oversized trays that folded down. Good for eating or watching a show on your computer.
There was a section of tatami mat rooms which were very popular. It is so civilized - you know a space is occupied by the shoes that are left at its entrance.
Travelling is full of bittersweet feelings. We love exploring new places, understanding their essence and the people. Yet there comes a time when we must say farewell to where we are. Our experience the past month on Shikoku Island has exceeded our expectations. At times it was hard work….huge ascents, serpentine routes at times, fine tuning routes we had created. Finding routes that could balance getting off the busy roads yet not exhausting us with an excess of climbing or increased mileage is something we got better at as we grew to understand the terrain.
Shikoku offered us so much…firstly, the incredible Shimanami Kaido, a mecca and paradise for cyclists. Secondly, incredibly friendly and welcoming people, traditional stays at Minshukus and Ryokans, beautiful scenery, a coastline with wild seas, sandy beaches and volcanic rocks, interesting towns and of course the Henro Pilgrimage of 88 Temples. We didn’t see them all. We particularly treasure the personal connections we were able to make with Pilgrims we met and got to know. Each had their own reasons for being there, but they all shared a pure determination to make this Pilgrimage, whatever the weather or the terrain with grace. We wish them well.
Now, on to Kyushu.
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles) Total: 977 km (607 miles)
