From a Fabulous Campsite to a Grotty Inn

November 24, 2023

When we arrived at this campground yesterday, we could not believe our good fortune. Having no idea it was even here…that is until we were looking at Google Maps for inspiration on where to go and there it was, just a km away. The amenities and people we have met here certainly made our stay a big step up from wild camping.

There were several other campers set up here and all had the same camping philosophy of quietly enjoying nature that we enjoy. The young family with two daughters who run the campground and the cat who greeted us made it special.

The fly is off the tent and we are slowly getting packed up to venture forth. Last night was so cold! It felt like camping at home in the winter. Nonetheless, we slept quite well.

The camping area for tents was huge with a gazebo, hammocks strung between trees with excellent facilities for laundry, showers etc. Our fellow campers were friendly, quiet neighbours. Love it.

Shower block (100¥) with laundry and a place to relax out of the elements on benches or a hammock chair. Very civilized.

We had access to newer and nicer laundry facilities than we have at home.

The bathroom block, washing up area and on the right, one of the furnished cabins for rent.

Our neighbour had a canvas teepee style tent with a heater inside. You can see the chimney poking out through the middle of the tent.

Sites for tenters with dogs are fenced to give their pet a sizeable area to run.

Gazebo and picnic area in the tenting section.

A face that tells the story of his life and a desire for a cuddle. We listened and obliged. The charming and affectionate nature of this cat makes you wonder why no one has offered to foster or adopt him. Nonetheless, the cat is in a good spot due to the care and affection he gets from the family who run the campground. The eyes of this cat are haunting.

Interesting tail…it is partly outstretched but when the cat is relaxed it curls in a coil.

The campground sits above the river and this soccer pitch. A robot mower was working hard keeping the grass mowed.

This rushing river is quite a force and we could hear it from our tent last night.

We kept getting lost after leaving the campground and trying to get back to the road. Access from the road is straight up a steep short section and then winds its way through a neighbourhood. This produce was at one of the dead ends we encountered.

A different type of persimmon. Typically we see the variety which is shaped like a big tomato….these are narrow and oval. This type of persimmon can be found drying on people’s porches.

A tip for those considering taking a bite of one of these which have fallen to the ground…don’t do it! We have read that one type of persimmon should not be eaten raw, and we think we have found such a variety.

We are determined to continue finding quiet routes along the river, away from traffic. This is looking promising.

The road is not maintained (but it’s ok), it sits between the river and a train line and there is zero traffic. Paradise for us.

For a while, we were treated to excellent road surface and our view opened up. Much of the time we are riding in a densely forested area with steep rocky cliffs up one side. The lush growth with tree roots resembling coiled vines clinging to the rocky wall remind us of the rainforest of British Columbia.

The canopy of trees is creating a secluded feel, with the steep, tall rock face and possibility of rocks falling makes for an interesting ride.

Not sure what this ball is. It is fascinating to see how trees manage to grow in such inhospitable environments.

We think that perhaps it is a home for wasps or hornets

We came to the end of the secluded road and now we will resume regular riding.

It is becoming cold with a biting wind. We see a lot of this pampas with the white fronds along the road.

It is always interesting to see the local crafts and produce at a Michi.

These masks are made by a local artist and for sale.

This area is known for its peaches and of course, mandarins.

Photo opportunities like this are very popular at most Michi’s, stores and tourist spots.

Barry is always happy to oblige.

We’re happy - a bag of mandarins from a local farm to take with us.

Fall has come suddenly and trees like this have already lost most of their leaves. We are adjusting to the very cold evenings and nights.

It has been an exceptional day of riding with the odd challenge thrown in. Mt. Aso is looming larger on the horizon and we need to stop soon for the day as tomorrow will be a day of climbing. Our only option for accommodation is a Japanese Inn that gets somewhat dodgy reviews, but we have booked a room for tonight as we need to charge our bike batteries etc and get out of the cold.

We encountered some construction, but as usual, the road crew are exceptional at protecting us. As we approach, we can see the guys are talking to each other on their radios and clearing the road for us of traffic. Their work ethic is incredible and it’s alldone with deep bows, smiles and waves.

We know that we need to get to our accommodation, but we must make a quick detour to see the Harajiri Falls which were created by volcanic activity from Mt. Aso 90,000 years ago. As we rode in the fading light toward the falls, a Japanese man saw us and ran alongside us as he wanted to personally show us this site which he called “the Japanese Niagara Falls”.

Walking out on the suspension bridge for a straight on view of the falls.

An image in the setting sun that we loved.

This much beloved yet not so welcoming dog greeted us at our accommodation for the night.

As we read in the reviews, our Accomodation for tonight will not be our best experience. It is old and badly in need of upgrades. As well, our tatami mat room has lovely big windows but are single pane and only paper screen window coverings. The room is as cold as being outside. We have the heat pump on high, but it will take time to make the room less frosty. We are grateful to be inside on this cold, inhospitable night.

Today's ride: 44 km (27 miles)
Total: 1,141 km (709 miles)

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