Mountain Passes and Monkeys - Six Wheels Through Japan - Osaka to Tokyo and Back - Part 4 - CycleBlaze

April 23, 2025

Mountain Passes and Monkeys

We have had a delightful time at Guesthouse Oninosanpomichi, which began  with the incredible welcome and hospitality that we enjoyed while staying here.  Our hosts, a family comprised of the mom, dad and son, are born to work in the hospitality business; everything is done with a smile. She shared with us that this building has been receiving guests  for 50 years with her mom initially at the helm.  When the current owner took over, they renovated their living area plus the guest rooms (3  I think). Of course it didn’t hurt that we were served yummy homemade cheesecake and a beverage upon arrival.

The current owner and host ( aka cheesecake chef) loves to laugh and engage with her guests. I offered to let her try my trike…it was a good fit.
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Each guest suite is designed for privacy and we had no idea that there were other guests. As we got ready to head out, we met these two couples from Spain who stayed here and are also touring Japan. We really connected and enjoyed meeting them. Our hosts are the husband and wife on the left.
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Then the elderly neighbour came out to see what was happening and she tried my trike too. The son is in this photo as well and Barry is taking the photo.
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Next thing we know, the neighbour has gone back to her house to bring out her Koi windsocks to show us. She had noticed that we had them on our trikes as well. We had a crazy fun time with this group.
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Proudly showing her koi (carp) windsocks alongside mine on the trike.
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A funny thing happened yesterday a few km back from  the guesthouse. We  met a fellow from Slovakia who lives in the area.  He was concerned for our safety and wanted to escort us through the tunnel which culminates at our guesthouse. He said that the tunnel is very dangerous and doesn’t allow bikes. He offered to follow us with his hazard lights on.  This confused us as we are on a cycle route and we have ridden through countless tunnels. However,  we were grateful for his offer and agreed. As he said, the guesthouse is situated directly at the exit of the tunnel.  We made a quick turn and we had arrived. To our surprise, when we went to park our trikes at the back of the house, there was a cyclists’ tunnel. Who knew?…

Right behind the guesthouse is the cyclist/pedestrian tunnel which takes you back to Kumano.. Yesterday we missed stopping at an attraction, so we will head back and then return here before getting on our way.
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We came back to see this World Heritage site…Shishiiwa..
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Shishiiwa is part of the World Heritage Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. At 25 metres high and 210 metres in circumference, it is truly a work of art created by nature.
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Seeing Shishiiwa, the rock shaped like a lion, roaring towards the Kumano Nada Sea inspires awe. It was formed by tectonic uplift and coastal erosion over a long period of time. Annually on August 17th, a fireworks festival takes place here transforming Shishiiwa into a prime photography location for avid photographers. Imagine the sight of Shishiiwa silhouetted against fireworks illuminating the night sky. It sounds to us like a reason to return one day.
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This sign is for pilgrims and hikers who are walking the Kumano Kodo.
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The ride is starting with a mountain pass which we will be climbing for some time. We are greeted early in the ride with this waterfall. The high temperature and humidity today will make us suffer on this climb.
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Yes, we are officially in the mountains. At this point, we are looking forward to the descent.
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Not sure what this guy is filming but he sure has all the right gear.
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The cooling sounds of falling water make you feel a bit cooler, for the moment.
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We have climbed…and climbed…what a view back to the Pacific Ocean.
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The more we ride in these hills, we recognize that when a second lane is added for slower traffic, a steeper section is coming. So, take a deep breath, gear down and get it done. And yes, we definitely belong in the slower lane..for obvious reasons.
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As we climb, we see more of these cement walls with holes along the road with holes for drainage. We liked them….lots of character.
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When you are hot and sweaty and tired from the climb, Pocari Sweat is just what you need. We love that Japan has vending machines literally everywhere.
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There is a mist and the clouds are covering the peaks.
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It feels like we may experience a storm…hope we can finish this part of the ride before it begins.
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Koi windsocks on a building
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The hills and mountains feel like a jungle at times with such lush and dense growth. We could hear the monkeys in the forest when I suddenly heard Barry call out that there monkeys watching him from the trees. You can see two monkeys relaxing in the tree.
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We are going through a logging area with large logging trucks on the road and sawmills. We understand the pros and cons of the industry as we come from a province that has a long history of logging
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Our second mountain pass of the day.
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Now this is a welcome site after the strenuous day we have had. A descent in a tunnel for 1 km and 626 metres. Yeah!
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We like these signs along the route which show whether you are going up or down. Thrnumber of red symbols tell us the steepness of the descent, so we know that we will have a steep downhill coming up. Alternatively, the signs showing an ascent will have bubbles of sweat showing the steepness of the climb.
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And here we are, another downhill tunnel for over 2 km.
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We came out of the tunnel and it started to rain really hard. We thought we could outrun it, but we got drenched through.
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We have reached sea level and we look like drowned rats. We took refuge in the oversized handicapped bathroom at Family Mart and quickly changed into rain gear. We were so cold and wet…we had a hot coffee and a steamed pork bun. Feeling good and hopeful that the downpour will clear some of the humidity.
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We are settled in to our hotel, an aging (like us!) building, but dry. Having sushi, sashimi and beer for dinner and then ready for a good sleep. We have seen beautiful scenery today….it has been challenging at times but what memories we take from this day.
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We love hotels like this that have no delusions of grandeur. When we asked for a space inside for our trikes, the worker quickly made space and said, bring them in. 👍
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Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 428 km (266 miles)

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