Yesterday was a sobering reminder to take care when the weather is bad and to recognize when it is time to stop. As we made our way to Karatsu we could see that we “dodged a bullet”by stopping. Rain, wind and cold temps continue today but we are rested and can make it.
Forgot to mention, that yesterday we were constantly receiving Severe Weather Warnings from the Japan Weather Service courtesy of the NHK app on my phone. It was 3 tiered: High Surf Alert…Extreme Winds with dangerous gusts…heavy rain with icy sleet. …a trifecta of bad news….plus a secondary warning of thunderstorms. As the wind seems to be a constant companion here, we are getting used to the weather reports warning that the temp you feel is significantly lower. It may be 12 but it feels like 4…and we can confirm, indeed, that it is accurate.
Our ride today was through rural areas, small towns and miles and miles of following the beautiful Kyushu coastline. Surfers are a hardy bunch and they seem to thrive in bad weather, especially when the winds stir up the surf. It was fun to watch them.
Our initial impression of Karatsu is positive with the ocean and waterways a defining feature. Like so many Japanese cities, it also has the iconic image of the Castle perched on high with a commanding view of the city. Our accomodation is perched on the water on a point of land within about 500 m of the Castle. Thankfully, there is a bridge connecting our location to the castle. The view from our window is wonderful…water on all sides and the Castle a constant presence. At night it is particularly beautiful as it well illuminated.
The Glocal Hotel is a luxury branded hotel chain that we didn’t know existed. It became our port in the storm as the expression goes.
Christmas is nigh…Japanese people really embrace the decorations, colourful lights and all the special food that the holidays bring. Hey, that sounds a lot like home. However, in Japan, gift giving, Christmas morning rituals and families being together are not significant. New Year is the important time. There is a mass exodus of people heading home to be with their families. Going to their Buddhist Temple is a high priority and it is a significant part of their life as Buddhists. Lineups can be the length of city blocks. It is remarkable to see the patience and civility of this mass of people waiting in line. If you are in Japan over the holidays, it is important to prebook accomodation over the New Year week.
Lots of standing water on the road and fields from the storm yesterday. From the looks of the sky, it may be more rideable today, but it isn’t behind us yet.
The wind is a wall of resistance for us as we fight the headwind. We are reminded what the weather forecasts say that the wind makes it feel several degrees colder. We agree. We feel a bit like a toddler wandering around in a snowsuit as we have layers of clothing to help keep us warm.
A visit to a public bathroom is never boring in Japan. We enjoy posters like this which are positioned directly in front of you in the toilet stall. Some of the images are mystifying. What is that fellow doing facing the back of the toilet? And for goodness sakes, do sit on the toilet and not in front of it.
Mark M.Ironically, I guess anyone choosing to sit backwards won't actually see the poster. They could go through an entire lifetime without knowing that they're getting it wrong 🤔 Reply to this comment 2 weeks ago
Barry went into a Conbini (Convenience Store) and came out with some odd choices like this sandwich with whipped cream, custard and apple.It was delicious…not so odd after all.
Yesterday, our route followed the coast line as well, but we couldn’t see it due to the storm. We chose to head inland as the wind was fierce off the water as well as the high surf warning.
As we approached the city of Karatsu, we were so excited to find that our bike route took us through the famed Black Pine forest, the Niji no Matsubara Pine Grove. There is a 5 km long stretch with an estimated million black pines planted along Katsura Bay. It is a treasure and so beautiful.
We arrived relatively early to our accomodation, a ryokan which is pictured behind Barry on the right. Since we had paid for last night and were unable to get there…we were able to check in right away. We were so pleased as we would like to do some sightseeing. First to the Castle which is situated only 500 metres from where we are staying.
Katsura Castle is the centrepiece of Karatsu. It is a hilltop castle and is known as “Maizuru Castle”. Since the castle resembles the head of a crane (or Tsuru in Japanese), and the curving coastline resembles a crane spreading its wings, it is known as the Dancing Crane.
An unusual feature of Katsura Castle is that the stone block walls seem to arise directly from the sea. It was completed in 1608 and was rebuilt in 1966 and is now a museum showcasing the Domain’s Samurai past, including displays of armour and weaponry. We had wondered if we would enjoy this castle due to it having been rebuilt, but the museum it houses and the building elements we could appreciate made it so worthwhile. Highly recommended.
A highlight for us was going up to the top floor and appreciating the incredible view. A momentary “low light” was that we were the last people up there before closing and we thought we were stranded Finally Barry was able to open one of the sliding doors with much effort. It could have been a cold night.
The exhibits were amazing explaining to us the significance of the Castle within an historic context, showing the battle armour of the Samurai and clarifying the struggles between nations at the time.
We have made the plan to come to this area (Saga) is to immerse ourselves in the history of pottery and ceramics that define this area’s history (and continues today). This plate is an example of Karatsu pottery from the 17th century. Saga Prefecture is renowned from ancient times for its production of pottery and ceramics.
We wondered why these manga characters were featured in the castle. It turns out that a manga book was made into an anime a film called, Yuri on Ice, and it takes place in Karatsu.
The beautiful coastline of Kyushu. We rode along this coastline when we rode to Karatsu. This coastline looks like a dancing crane spreading its wings.
We love ramen and appreciate the cooks who specialize in preparing this yummy soup with complex flavours. It is a dedicated group of chefs who specialize in ramen.
We didn’t make it back before the skies opened again with force. The rain and wind are back with a vengeance. This is the view from our room with the castle lit up in the distance.
