Exploring the traditional street markets - Six Wheels Through Japan and South Korea Part 3 - CycleBlaze

Exploring the traditional street markets

Solving Mary Ellen’s glasses problem

We are happy to have a few days to explore Busan more fully before we head back to Japan. We are now more confident riding our trikes with traffic and yet cautious with our  awareness of the challenges cyclists face on these busy roads. Today will be a day of exploring markets. It is a beautiful day for it.

We are enjoying the view from our room. We can see the Ferry Terminal from our room and we reflect on the crazy time we had finding it when we arrived.
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As this photo below shows, rooftop spaces are well used for gardening, making kimchi, laundry  and enjoying personal space.

The density of housing in Busan is a massive contrast to how we live on Saltspring Island in BC. That is one of the joys of travel for us. We get to see and appreciate how people live in different countries.
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It is hard to believe there is space for more high rises. The Kampu Ferry also goes to Japan.
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There is an intricate network of small roads which go up, down and across as they make their way through these neighbourhoods. From the bottom, you can see steep and long sections of stairs going up and up.
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The first mission of the day is to get new glasses for Mary Ellen. You don’t realize how necessary they are until you don’t have them. We asked at the hotel for advice on where to go and the young woman took this request very seriously.  After a pause,  she said…DaVich, they are legendary. It is the only place Koreans go for glasses.   Well, that’s good enough for me. Luckily one of their branches is only 1.5 km from the hotel and it is close to the fish market…one of the places we want to visit while we are here.

Da Vich, a great place to get glasses, have an eye exam and leave in 30 minutes with new glasses.
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The only disappointment was that I could not get Progressive lenses same day…it takes 5 days. We leave in a few days, so I decided to get 2 pair…one for reading and one for distance. The first step is to pick out frames. The frames are organized by price, starting at $10 and they go up to $50. The lens start at $10 but I splurged and got the lighter, better lenses at $20. 

First an eye exam.
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As well as the exam, my prescription sunglasses were helpful. They scanned them and used them to fine tune the process. I was surprised how comfortable the glasses were, and best of all, their clarity.

This is what a grand total of $80 can get you in Busan when you are buying new glasses. The pair on the left are for distance and the other pair are for reading. The other unexpected part of the process was the lounge where you can wait and enjoy free beverages.
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This young woman worked with me to make a selection, performed the eye exam and prepared my glasses. Exceptional service and a great experience.
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Karen PoretNice to see you, Mary Ellen! :)
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3 weeks ago

Next stop is the Fish Market known as Jagalchi. It is the largest fish market in South Korea and its length spans 3 km.  It is located outside on narrow streets and stretches for blocks. There are also cafes in buildings which serve fresh fish from local fishermen. As a country which is surrounded by the ocean on  3 coasts, fish is a staple in their diet and a means of livelihood for many.

Our first stop is this restaurant which is reputed to have the best fish cakes.
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There are many varieties of fish cakes and we tried the one the fellow recommended.
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Good advice from this young man, it was delicious.
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Yummy…fish cakes on a skewer with a dipping sauce made from the broth and soy sauce.
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There are so many photos we have included of the fish market. It is such an incredible place, we had trouble editing them. Enjoy.

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Typically the men catch the fish, but the women vendors rule at the market. They come ready for market, battle ready made up with bright lipstick with matching aprons and colourful clothing. They’ve seen it all, they are pros in handling fish and keep the market humming with energy.  

Older Korean women run things at the market. They work tirelessly, keeping their display of fish fresh and appetizing, all the while calling out for your custom. They are also cleaning and deboning fish getting them ready for you to grill at home. They all have dippers to keep the fish wet. This woman was continually pouring water over her octopus.
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Walking along you are surrounded by a chorus of women’s voices trying to get your attention.
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Deboned, dried and ready to go.
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What a lovely sampling of this stands offerings…crab, octopus, prawns, shellfish.
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An interesting and colourful display of,shellfish.
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The women take great care to present their fish in an attractive and eye catching way.
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We never found out what these bundles of seaweed were for,
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Some of the displays had fish in tanks.
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The fish market has been a fixture in Busan for a very long time. We can imagine that these women have been doing this for much of their lives. It feels like it has become a rich and special community of its own. We have visited many fish market in our travels.. South Pacific, Asia, Europe…but this market is in a league of its own.

Dried fish
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This stall is selling the tools needed for preparing and cooking fish.
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Always busy and working.
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This woman was a hoot. One of the octopus was an escape artist and she didn’t let this slippery guy defeat her. At one point, she picked it up and it squirmed its way out of her hands again. She had a good laugh and persevered.
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She seems to always have a smile on her face. She clearly loves what she does.
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There are several eating areas in these buildings. Each section serves fish from a specific fisherman. Large groups were enjoying their feast of fresh fish.
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A great photo Barry, showcasing the fisherman’s pride in this crab.
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The menu
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A close up of the menu
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A stall with ginger and greens.
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Some liquor and dancing figures or cats to go with a fish purchase?
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Next stop was the Gukje market which also stretched along several city blocks?
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Everything you can imagine was available at these stalls.

We found a street with stall sized shops which had a specialty…like this one that specialized in bathroom fixtures.
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As luck will have it, we visited on a day that there were special things happening. Pop up food stalls with eating areas were on Arirang Street. Women who made the food and served customers were in the centre and patrons sat around them. We enjoyed seeing the various food stalls and tried some local specialities.
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Kimchi is one of the most important foods in Korea. Lots of stalls had this featured.
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This rich area is also home to the Busan International Film Festival…the BIFF. It started in 1996. During the 1960’s, there were 20 movie theatres in this area. In 1996, the area became known as BIFF square.
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We loved this walkway with plaques of the handprint of guests and featured artists of previous film festivals…actors, directors, etc.
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Luc Besson, French film director.
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Jim Sheridan, Irish film director.
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Who can resist pancakes made in the shape of the 500 won coin with cheese and condensed milk melted in the centre.
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Oh yes, they are gooey and you are eating it right if you have cheese stretched out like this. Barry got a thumbs up for doing it right.
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Fish cakes, croquettes, kimbap, meat in a spicy looking sauce. She has it all going on here.
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Kimbap is a classic Korean seaweed rice roll filled with seasoned beef, vegetables,omelette and pickled daikon.
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We had some yummy dumplings and kimbap.
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These were very popular, but we are getting too full to sample.
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Skewers of chicken cooked with a blow torch.
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Korean people come out in large groups to enjoy these special places.
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A uniquely Korean shop based on K Pop groups.
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Anything an everything is for sale at this market.
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We were parched from our busy day. There are so many coffee shops in Korea.This was the only one where we could find a place to sit down…so Starbucks it is.
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We have had a rich, wonderful and exhausting day. We walked for miles, rode our trikes for miles, ate a lot of food and bought 2 pairs of prescription glasses for $80.  A day to remember.

Today's ride: 12 km (7 miles)
Total: 915 km (568 miles)

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