October 30, 2024
Day 35: Himeji to Fukuda (travel day)
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We arrived at Himeji Castle just after it opened, succeeding in our plan to stay one step ahead of the crowds. For a while, I even doubted whether this place is even all that popular, as we were able to ride our bikes almost right up to the ticket machines. By the time we left not much more than an hour later, we could hardly navigate our way through the thicket of humans approaching the gates. So yeah, it is all that popular.
There was pressure to wrap things up by 11:00 so we'd have plenty of time to buy ferry tickets to Shodoshima. I wish that weren't the case. Especially at the nearby Japanese gardens, there were plenty of opportunities to sit and enjoy the view. We knew that we were trying to squeeze a lot into a short time frame, but it was either this or not sightsee at all.
I will leave these photos without comment, as they speak for themselves.
We expected urban chaos during the six kilometer ride from the castle to the port. We were pleasantly surprised. There were very few stoplights, and not much traffic.
We reached the ticket office, located in a shabby building. The whole affair seemed rather ramshackle. Proof came when we found the office closed, with a sign stating that it won't open until 40 minutes before the 1:35 sailing. I thought they'd want us there much earlier, and we could eat leisurely on the boat before departing.
We had an hour to kill and a two stomachs to fill. The only food nearby was at an industrial cafeteria. We've eaten at a truck stop before, so this didn't faze us one bit. We sidled up next to the dock workers in their blue jumpers, and ate our soup and rice like we belonged there. Anyone viewing the scene would think we were completely lost, bonkers, or both. We watched the Yankees clobber the Dodgers 11-4. Boo!
Back at the ferry terminal, everything went smooth as silk. We boarded last, which was fine by us. It was such a relaxed experience compared to our only other Japan ferry crossing.
While waiting for the ferry, we were approached by Michael, a Breton who is backpacking his way across Japan. He was heading for the same campground that we had chosen. We figured that this was a good omen and that we must have a lot in common with him. We chatted for most of the trip. We waved goodbye and shouted see you again soon at the ferry dock at Fukuda. He arrived a half hour after we did. Not bad for a 3km hike!
We were caught completely off guard by the fact that Fukuda has no konbini or other way to stock up on food. We'd gotten so used to their presence that we took it completely for granted. Luckily, we have some rice and miso soup on hand, and there was a little restaurant open in town. We rode back and ate dinner there, saving our supplies to enjoy as breakfast on the beach.
Meanwhile, Michael had found a source of food much closer to the campsite. We should have followed him around rather than to strike out on our own. Oh well, it all worked out for the best, and we got to ride some more today. Always a plus in my book.
The three of us talked until it got too chilly for us. Michael is doing a lot of traveling now before he sets down roots (literally) starting a vineyard. He's a very smart fellow who has a strong drive to act on his principles. I truly admire that.
We've decided on a route tomorrow that won't take us into the mountains, but will instead consist of twisty coastal roads, ending at another campground on the south side of the island. We can eat lunch and stock up in the city of Shodoshima. It should be a day of quiet beauty on our bikes. Until then, we'll let the sound of the waves lull us to sleep.
Today's ride: 22 km (14 miles)
Total: 2,075 km (1,289 miles)
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