Day 24: Rain delay in Matsumoto

October 19, 2024

I feel like a fraud, because it hardly rained today. The skies absolutely looked ominous at times, and the wind was pretty stiff, but we could have ridden today. That's Murphy's Law at work for us: when we ignore the forecasts, we get dumped on, and when we take heed, it's a flash in the pan.

Looks like a pro-bike banner, doesn't it? Think again! It says that cyclists are equally responsible for traffic safety. It's a fair statement, although it doesn't take into account how vulnerable we are versus drivers.

Speaking of flashes in the pan, what we thought was going to be a castle tour turned put to be more of a flintlock musket museum. I'm not complaining: the castle grounds, and even the keep, are pretty amazing. I guess it just never occurred to me that this castle would be much more a fortress than a residence. There was nothing in the way of furnishings, so you had to imagine what daily life as a soldier or daimyo (or whomever -- I'm not very interested in Japan's feudal history) would be like inside these pretty darkened quarters. They must have spent a lot of time outside, unless they were under siege. As with some other historic places we've visited, I'm sure that curators decided to leave things sparse in order to create more space for visitors to stand. As we ascended each floor, the footage decreased with it. By the time we made it to the sixth floor, there wasn't even room for displays.

One thing we did expect was crowded conditions. We arrived shortly after the 8:30 opening. We're glad we did, because by the time we exited the keep, the queue to enter was pretty long. As things were, it was manageable and not claustrophobic. There are staff ushering visitors in orderly fashion up and down the steep steps. Signs warning people not to take photos near the stairs were well-heeded. I can just imagine a bunch of yahoos posing for the perfect Instagram shot and holding up the line forever, or maybe even causing injury. It probably happened one too many times already before they resorted to placing signs everywhere.

The closest thing to furniture I could find: a bullet storage drawer

Next, we visited a Shinto shrine, where the mystery of "7 5 3" continued. This is a rite of passage for children that we thought takes place on November 15, but we keep seeing families with kids having their photos taken in traditional clothing. Maybe it's like holidays in the U.S., in which there's a big lead-up to the actual day. Speaking of which, Japanese seem to love Halloween, and the shops have been hawking spooky merch since at least late September.

After that was nearby Nawate Street, which is a pedestrianized area of touristy shops in traditional buildings. It has a frog theme, which I have to admit is pretty cute.

We finally started to fall in love with Matsumoto when we walked behind Nawate Street and found this beautiful stream, with picturesque bridges crossing it.

A visit to a nearby ramen shop sealed the deal. Delicious food and friendly service in a vibrant hole in the wall. When the owner asked us where we're from, and we answered, he exclaimed, "Ichiro!" For some reason I had totally forgotten about that connection. We'll have to use it in the future.

The final touristy thing we did was to visit the local art museum. It featured works by hometown hero Yayoi Kusama. While a sign admonished visitors from taking photos, in the final room, everyone was snapping away with reckless abandon, so we did too. One thing I'll repeat from our Korea journal from two years ago: reasonable ticket prices for museums should be a human right. This facility is world-class. Maybe their collection isn't the greatest, but 410 yen for entry is a steal. Museums around the world (and the governments that should be supporting them), please take note!

We were two of many hundreds of foreign visitors to Matsumoto today. I had no idea that the city has such a strong base of tourism. Having started our journey from Hokkaido without even visiting Sapporo, I feel like we've slipped in to Japan through a secret door, and only now are we really starting to see it as a huge magnet for tourists. We're headed towards Osaka, so things will likely get even crazier soon enough. Then it will be off to Shikoku, where we hope to get a respite from the crowds again.

Speaking of the road to Osaka, I briefly considered resorting to our original plan, which involved ascending Mount Norikura. Not only is it the highest road in Japan, it's also almost car-free! Private vehicles are forbidden about halfway up the mountain, with only buses and taxis (and bikes, of course) allowed through. As incredible as that sounds, we still decided to opt for the easy way out along the Kiso River. The two days' riding we save will come in handy down the line.

Speaking of riding, we're eager to hit the road again. It should be a fun few days ahead.

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