On the road again - we think - Six wheels through Japan - CycleBlaze

June 27, 2023

On the road again - we think

We feel like we are caught in a time and space loop called Sapporo and we can’t seem to make headway and just leave. Yesterday we got lost in time and space exploring the incredible below-ground world of Sapporo as well as  trying to secure our ferry tickets and then find a way to pay for them. Surprisingly that took hours. Dealing with what should be a simple task, such as buying tickets, can be complicated for travellers due to customs and requirements that we don’t understand or know about.  

The Business Hotel was surprisingly good….incredible value, comfortable and quiet. We did discover that a wall in the middle of the hotel separates it from Hotel Rio…a love hotel but we were happy as our side was a better price.

It was odd, on the upper level, there are two elevators with some of the floors inaccessible, but on the entry level, there is only one elevator.  It has been blocked off as that would have given entry to the Love Hotel as well.

Our Hotel…the other half of this entry is Hotel Rio and they have sparkly lights and a different, less subtle ambience.
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The  spectacular Nakajima Park is across the road from us. It is an extraordinary place with a Concert Hall, gardens, a special Japanese garden with a tea house. The park is massive and a popular place to spend time.

Decades ago, Leonard Bernstein was instrumental in forming the Pacific Music Festival which is held here annually in August. It attracts Japanese as well as international musicians and is held in the concert hall as well as outdoor stages in the park. It would be a treat to be here in August. Leonard Bernstein is beloved here.
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The concert hall is a spectacular building…a gem in this beautiful park.
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The only downside of enjoying a park in Japan this time of year, are the allergens that make us both miserable. We can never remember feeling so under siege by allergies. The pretty white stuff on the ground, is not our friend. It is swept towards us by the wind as we ride. By the end of the day, our eyes look bloodshot and very puffy.
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The foyer of the Concert Hall is striking and embodies Japanese minimalist design..a pleasing and beautiful effect.
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The Pacific Music Festival is celebrating its 30th Anniversary. Leonard Bernstein’s image is synonymous with its reputation.
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The Observatory in the park.
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Nakajima Park is a special place. We find that small towns, villages and the big cities always have a lot of park space with lovely gardens. Locals, who often live in a small space, use these spaces daily.
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This building at the park is a former tea house.
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We met this fellow Konstantin from Munich at the park. He spoke English very well and initially we thought he was Canadian due to his t-shirt. He is travelling around Japan for a month.
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One of the ponds at the park.
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The vines of these trees have woven together to create a very attractive and pleasing shelter of coolness.
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Being in a Japanese garden gives you such a feeling of calm and well being with its tranquility, beauty and thoughtful design.
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One of the traditional buildings you can visit at the park. Like other parks we have been, there are no costs involved, it is free to all.
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Once you leave the garden, the heat of the day catches up with you pretty fast.
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After much time, we left the park….reluctantly, and made our way across the bridge to head out.
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This is a most unusual bridge with very wide walkways on either side, commemorative displays of their twinning with Portland Oregon and this arched walkway of steps.it is most unusual that the area for pedestrians and cyclists is double the size of the lanes for cars.
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Note the bike lane below. We are discovering that bike routes are here, but it is hard to find out about them. When we see them, we try to,take advantage of them.
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Most rivers have this cement seating/steps alongside. The previous night, many people were sitting along here, having picnics and enjoying the breeze from the water.
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We are sorry to leave Sapporo. Like all of the cities we have visited on Hokkaido…Asahikawa, Otura, Furano…they have left us with a favourable impression. They are laid back with plenty of open spaces…wide pedestrian ways, many parks.
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We aren’t sure of the significance of these characters, nor their anatomical features, but we did enjoy them, so here they are.
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We are clearly fans of the Shugakuso Outdoor Stores. At this point we have visited all three of them. The first is their new flagship store in north Sapporo and It is where we bought our tent. The second was an unexpected visit as we came upon their smaller store on a small road as we left Asahikawa. And today, we have come to visit their original store which has a floor devoted to all things bike.
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A wall of Brompton folding bikes.
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Charmaine RuppoltYay, Bromptons! :) Great bike! :)
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1 year ago
Barry was drawn to this one…I think it may be due to its colour as it looks like his trike. It would be a fantasy to tour on one of these, as its tiny size gives accessibility to transportation, hotel rooms, etc. But would we be as comfortable?
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Susan JamesWe have a Bike Friday that folds up into a large suitcase and we plan to travel to Hokkaido next month to spend 2 weeks on the road. We'll let you know how it goes.
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1 year ago
Barry BartlettYes, I will be very interested. I hope I haven’t led you astray! One thought I have is about booking accommodation. With a 3 month trip, we have the luxury of time, but if I was cycling for 2 a shorter period I would probably prebook more…especially weekends. I hope you love Hokkaido. Curious what your route will be. We head home next week and I have gotten pretty sick…combination of allergies and a bad cold. With the heat and humidity I am taking it easy for a few days.
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1 year ago
Charmaine RuppoltI just recently finished a 300 mile bike tour in northern Germany on a Brompton and it did fine. :) :)
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1 year ago
By the outdoor store is this Buddhist statue, literally in a parking area.
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A lovely Buddhist shrine…
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….being enjoyed by this crow
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Yes, we took too long at Shugakuso….we love outdoor stores like this….so our sensible option was to backtrack to a hotel in Sapporo. The location is good as it is positioned well to get us 9n the road tomorrow. However, it is the crazy busy entertainment district. We have had to walk our trikes at times, but we made it.
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Statue of Liberty has had a makeover in Japan where vibrant colours rule,
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Our home for the night. I didn’t it think we would ever get through the massive crowds on the streets. This is an area we would not normally visit, but needs must. The price is right, they have an onsen, breakfast is included, but I think we are showing our age by not enjoying the scene.
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I thought I had lost Barry to the craziness of the Entertainment District. He went out to find a Konbini (Convenience Store) and get us some dinner. He forgot his phone which would have given him a map and he got lost….for well over an hour.  I was concerned as I knew there was a Lawson’s nearby.

Anyway, this seedy area, Susukino district has over 4000 bars, nightclubs and some questionable characters. It is the largest entertainment district north of Tokyo with a red light district and many hostess clubs.  He finally went to a hotel and showed them his Hotel Key Card. They printed out a map for him and he finally found his way back. This was a new experience for him as he has a great sense of direction. 

As is the case in areas like this…our hotel lobby is on the 5th floor. Street access is strictly by elevator.

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 2,188 km (1,359 miles)

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Charmaine RuppoltOh yes, ALWAYS bring your phone - - you never know when you may need it....
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1 year ago