Day 28: Onomichi: A layover day, for a loop ride to Tomonoura
We stayed in Onomichi two nights at a business hotel on the waterfront, in a room with an appealing view over the harbor and islands. The first night was especially pretty - it was Culture Day (a national holiday), and the cranes in the harbor were lit up in the evening by colored floodlights. On our layover day we took a loop ride southeast to Tomonoura, a small, scenic and well-preserved fishing village to the east. Once we worked our way free of Onomichi's suburbs we enjoyed a lovely quiet ride along the waterfront; and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Tomonoara. It's a very attractive place, and the only other place we saw in Japan that drew many recreational cyclists. It looks like small-scale fishing is still the dominant industry, although tourism must be close behind and growing. Several small tour groups with their guides walked through its streets, stopping to discuss its houses and shops, and at the waterfront a row of about 10 water colorists were sketching out their renditions of the boats, wooden shop fronts and the small lighthouse.