Day 27: Imbari to Onomichi: Hopping across the Inland Sea on the Shinamami Kaido
We left Shikoku by bicycle, following the Shinamami Kaiko across its series of 7 bridges that cross the Inland Sea as it island-hops between Imbari and Onomichi, back on the mainland (Honshu again). This ride is the best known cycling destination in Japan (and the only spot in Japan where we saw recreational riders in large numbers), and deservedly so - it has a claim to be the best single day of cycling Rachael and I have enjoyed together, anywhere. To begin with, we enjoyed the essential ingredient -terrific weather: clear skies, mild temperatures, and a light tailwind; probably the best riding conditions of the tour. The timing was perfect, because the ride is visually stunning as it alternates between the bridges and quiet, unspoilt islands in a constant unfolding ribbon of beautiful scenery. The bridges are the real show-stealers though. Each of them is beautiful in its own way and a few are stunningly graceful and light in appearance. Nearly all of them are major bridges, spanning high above the water to allow the heavy ship traffic of the Inland Sea to pass underneath. The smallest is perhaps the size of Fremont bridge in Portland, and the largest probably rivals the Golden Gate.
It all comes together only because the Japanese have made the investments to make it possible - the first six bridges all have wide, completely separated bicycle/pedestrian/scooter lanes with their own on ramps. This makes it possible to not only feel safe, but to stop anywhere along the way to admire the view of the islands, the straits, and the ships and fishing vessels passing below.
At the end of the day we came to the final straight before returning to Honshu and our night's stopover, Onomichi. We crossed this narrow waterway by passenger/cycle ferry. Onomichi is an attractive port town with a castle crowning the hill behind it. Enjoying the approach to the city from a tiny, car-free ferry gave the perfect finale to the most perfect of days.
Well, almost the perfect finale. The cherry on the top was, of all things, another Italian restaurant.
Map of the Shinamami Kaido, a remarkable cycle route across the Inland Sea.
The ferry to Onomichi. The final bridge across the sea, to Honshu, is less cycle-friendly and a few miles off route. Ferrying into Onomichi was a great way to arrive at the port.
