Day 25: Tonosho to Kotohira: Climbing Kompira Shrine
From Shodoshima we caught the morning ferry for Shikoku, one of the four main islands of Japan. We disembarked in the major port city of Takamatsu, and from there biked south and inland to Kotohira, the home of the great Kompira shrine and the endpoint of our first day's ride on the island. The shrine has a terrific situation, well up the side of a small peak neighboring the town. It is accessed by climbing about a mile long approachway having about 900 steps - or, if you've got enough money and are light enough, by riding in a palanquin (sedan chair, or litter) carried by a pair of bearers. Walking is the way to go though, enjoying the spectacle of the colorful pathway. The beginning stretch is lined with commercial stalls selling treats (including hot chestnuts roasted on-site in a small tumbler) and souveniers; passing through a large torii gate spanning the walkway; and then passing by an amazing procession of countless inscribed stone slabs and lanterns.
On the way down, after enjoying the exterior of the shrine and the view from the top, we passed a pair of white-robed pilgrims on the ascent. Shikoku is noteworthy as the location of a pilgrimage route that encompasses 88 Buddhist temples and circumscribes the entire island. It's the most important pilgrimage in Japan, and as it is 1,400 kilometers (800 miles) long it requires a month-plus commitment for those who chose to walk it.
The start of the ascent of Kompira Shrine in Kotohira: 785 steps to the main sanctuary (where we turned back), 1368 to the top. The path begins in a commercial arcade, but soon becomes much more tranquil and reverant.
The walkway to the shrine is quite a strenuous climb, but very beautiful. Along the whole way it is lined by carved stones and an amazing variety of stone lanterns.
