Massa Marittima to Portoferraio (Elba)

May 10, 2022

Someone flipped a switch!

Today started with the first breakfast buffet of the trip. Italian style, of course, with 4 different cakes that I noticed (I had small pieces of 3). Also muesli, unflavoured yogurt, and fresh strawberries (my preference) and soft-boiled eggs to keep Al happy.

The route I created had a very steep descent near the start which we decided to go around. Then along through the valley bottom on a tiny quiet road—until it tipped up. Coming after 4 reasonably challenging days on untrained legs, even Al did a bit of walking. I did a lot more. I know that, for me, the heat contributed to my lack of strength. I don’t do heat well and today the temperatures today averaged 28°C, much warmer than we’d experienced up til now on this tour and much warmer than we Vancouverites are used to, like someone flipped a switch to make it summer.

I looked at this ahead and hoped that was a driveway and the road bent around the hill—but no, that was the road. At least it wasn’t as steep as the initial climb.

The effort was was worth it, though; these first 20 km were the best part of the ride. Eventually we descended and joined a more major valley road with more traffic. The traffic levels really increased once we joined the highway into Piombono and its port.

This field of poppies was incredible. There were cars parked with others taking photos too but this waste best I could do standing over my bike in the shade across the road.

We’ve taken plenty of ferries with our bikes but going to Elba was different. There are multiple companies making the run from Piombino to Portoferraio and they all share a ticket office in that each has a booth in a large hall. A screen shows the departures and destinations; you select which you want and buy your ticket from the appropriate booth. Coming from a province where pretty well all ferries are run by BCFerries, I was glad there was a sort of concierge there to help.

I got our tickets and off we raced to catch our Blu-Navy ferry, departing in less than 10 minutes.

We bought a basic panini and a beer each on board (the facilities were marginally better than Washington State Ferries) and sat inside to eat. Afterward, we ventured out to the limited outdoor passenger area but it was chilly on the starboard side and smelly with exhaust and smokers on the port side so we came back inside.

This ferry is called Le Jacques Cartier, an interesting name for an Italian coastal ferry.

It wasn’t far to the hotel I’d booked and thankfully flat. The Hotel Villa Ombrosa has seen better days, but our room has a balcony looking northeast over the blue water. Not so bad for the price! And breakfast included.

After a shower and a rest, we went out for a walk and to feed Al, who was faint from hunger. He had a sandwich and then we walked around the old port (sailboats, vessels belonging to the Guardia Finanza, the Carabinieri, and the Guardia Costiera) and the new port (giant ferries like the one we took). Pizza dinner in the old port and an early night.

My pizza had big shrimp with the tail shells still on. I wasn’t sure how to eat them so took them off the pizza, removed the shells, and put them back.

The Moby Batman ferry was departing as we walked back to our hotel. We saw another Moby ferry earlier all covered in cartoon animals.

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Not far and also flat. We were mystified when we later walked back across the isthmus (if that’s what I can call it) and turned left and found ourselves going around a point and into the old port. We hadn’t really looked at a map of the town.

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Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 295 km (183 miles)

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Rachael AndersonI’m with you on the heat issue and especially with climbing. I’m really impressed how you are doing. I’ve been riding non stop but I’m not sure I could do what you’re doing!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetI wouldn’t think I could either! But I just keep plodding on. You do realize that some of my first trips after returning to cycle touring were just following your tracks?
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2 years ago