Finale Ligure to Ceva

May 23, 2022

Back in 2019 when I was originally developing this tour, the idea was to get accommodation as we went along, with a few exceptions such as Bormio because we wanted to be there to see a bit of the Giro in person). Of course, we had to cancel it all.

Then, in 2021, I was surprised that I couldn’t find cancellable accommodation in Ceva. It seemed we might have to ride all the way from the coast to Alba in one day instead of stopping in Ceva at the approximate half-way point. Luckily, when I was reviewing our plans, I found a place to stay in Ceva after all. I then shortened the previous day’s ride to “only” 95 km.

Yesterday’s ride wasn’t too bad, long but not much climbing. Today we rode almost as far but there were two big climbs (one much bigger than the other) and two fun descents (again one much bigger than the other).

If only I’d gotten a decent night’s sleep! The Antico Pozzo B&B is located in the old town (its location was one of the reasons I chose it) but unfortunately, the drinkers didn’t all go home early. The noise level dropped around 10:30 but since our window overlooked one of the main access points to the old town, we got to hear noisy groups pass by until very late. I had to sleep with the windows closed, which I dislike.

This was also our one booking that had a shared bath. That’s okay, but if that’s the case, it should be possible for doors to be opened and closed quietly (rather than scraping on the floor).

However, some of this was balanced by the very friendly woman who served our breakfast. She started off speaking to us in German since most of the non-Italian tourists in this area are German.

The B&B’s bike garage is just outside the old city walls. Walking back, you look up and see the old citadel.

And beyond that, there’s a castle. There is a walking path up to these marked in the town but we didn’t go up yesterday (and we have another long ride today).

We returned to the coast road but, although we rode a bit of cycle path through one of the towns, it seemed we were too far northeast for the fantastic cycle route I’ve seen in other journals. In fact, we never really saw the sea today.

We turned inland and north at Albenga and neither of us was sad to leave the coast behind. Our Garmins told us we were on Via al Piemonte and that sounded good.

Approaching Albenga along the quiet road between the rail line and the main coast road, I noticed a nursery (?) with pots of daisies, perhaps chamomile. Then another. And then, leaving Albenga on the Via al Piemonte, there were more plant nurseries. A local industry it seems.

Pots of lavender with greenhouses beyond. And further still were pots of palm trees.

Our route trended gently uphill until just past Zuccarello when it definitively tilted up. Up, up, up. And no commemoration at the top, just a coast down to Bardineto and a light lunch. We found a bar just before 2 but, unlike in Spain where food would just be coming available, here our options were limited to what was left. We shared the last piece of onion focaccia and the last panini (it turned out it was the last panini roll; the young woman running the place suggested ham and mozzarella; we said sure. She also had “toast” available so all ordered one of those too. What came is what we would call a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. Definitely different from the “toast” we had as part of our breakfast this morning.

On the climb. This castle was, as it turned out, much closer to the base of the climb than the top.

Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena from below…

Back on our bikes, we had it all: gentle downhill, tailwind, and a smooth road. Until, of course, we reached the base of the second climb, at Caragna. More switchbacks but this climb was less than half the elevation gain of the morning one. Then a thrilling descent of over 400 m! And then we were in Piemonte.

Soon after we turned onto the busier highway at Bagnasco, we saw some Giro field art from when Stage 13 passed through here 3 days ago. In fact, the stage followed the same route as us as far as Ceva.

We are staying at Il Riccio B&B and what a difference from last night. It’s a bit out of the centre (so a good excuse to rest rather than explore) and very quiet. Barbara, the proprietor, is very friendly and welcoming. Everything looks new so perhaps this is a new business.

More Giro art at the roundabout near our B&B

Pizza at a roadside restaurant not far away for dinner.

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Today's ride: 87 km (54 miles)
Total: 970 km (602 miles)

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