Cortina d’Ampezzo to Caprile

June 16, 2022

We discussed this day’s route several times, always glad that we find ourselves starting from Cortina rather than Misurina. But even so, there is at least one significant climb between us and our destination and we are feeling tired.

There were four possible routes: two over Passo di Giau (which I wanted to do because I hear it’s beautiful), then either over Colle Santa Lucia or through the Fiorentina Valley (with tunnels); or back up Passo Falzarego and down the twisty road we saw, then down either the west or east side of the Cordevole River. How to decide?

These graphics helped.

We made the decision to ride up Passo Falzarego when I got to Pocol, where Al was waiting. We would need to turn left for Passo Giau at this point, and we decided not to.

The climb was nice (except for the occasional truck), that is, as nice as it can be when you’re grinding your way up with a heavy bike. I was doing well until approaching a pair of hairpins 1.5 km from the top (I’d just passed the sign), when an idiot descending on a motorcycle, followed by his buddy, decided coming out of a blind hairpin turn would be the place to pass the car in front of them. I was terrified as this fast-accelerating motorcycle was headed straight for me! He squeaked by me with inches to spare (and a lot more space between himself and the car he was passing). I fell against the stone retaining wall. Nobody stopped except me. The only damage was a scrape on my leg, luckily.

Al was waiting at the top and together we started down the switchbacks of SR 48. Three or four down, we came to a stop at a pullout for a good look. Neither of us had taken any photos to this point. We’d ridden down the same road just two days before in better light so weren’t inspired.

Galleria! What we didn’t see from here was the short curved one on the hairpin out of frame to the left.

Someone else was using this location too.

Another stop-and-look before the galleria.

The next decision point was at Cernadoi. We opted for the east side of the valley, following SR 203, mostly because this road was highlighted in green, meaning it was scenic, while very little of the other possible route was. However, my idea of scenic doesn’t always agree with the map publisher’s.

Just before the intersection where we turned onto “scenic” SR 203 to ride down the left side of the valley.

Not really my idea of “scenic”. Before this opening, it was just trees on both sides, with many dead trees and fallen trees. Killed by infestation then felled by storms?

A little bit scenic in the opposite direction but maybe the bar has been set too high by the last few days..

After much more descending, we arrived in Caprile.

Caprile. Most of the village is below, at river level.

We are staying at Hotel La Montanina with half board. We like this option! Our room was ready when we arrived around 12:30 and we ate lunch at the hotel restaurant before hiding from the rain in our room. Once again, we made it before the weather! A short walk and then a good dinner in the hotel dining room.

Pedestrian/cycle bridge across the river in Caprile. I thought the design analysis would be a good student project so I’m putting the photo here to remind myself to send it to a former colleague.

Monte Civetta fills the horizon to the south.

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Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 1,998 km (1,241 miles)

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Scott AndersonThat’s an unnerving incident with the motorcycle. Glad to hear you’re no worse for it than you sound.
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2 years ago

Patrick O'HaraUncanny! In about five weeks, Susanna and I will be riding EXACTLY these same roads and routes. I'm trying not to gaze at your photos too long for sake of a self inflicted 'spoiler alert', but I can't help it. WOW!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Patrick O'HaraWe’ll have to compare notes! I’ll be following your journal down memory lane, I think.
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2 years ago