Bormio to Lasa

June 6, 2022

Over Passo dello Stelvio!

Today’s ride was one I was both looking forward to and dreading. I like doing classic climbs (even if I don’t end up doing them in the iconic direction) but the difficulties I had on our ride up the valley to Bormio eroded my confidence. The forecast, however, was for cooler temperatures and an early start always helps. We weren’t as early as I’d hoped but we were on the road shivering before 7:30.

The first three km to the Bagni Vecchio turnoff were easier than yesterday, even with my loaded bike. Then the road continued to climb but the grade was never too steep for me to manage. Al stopped and waited a few times but I don’t think he passed any cyclists on light road bikes this time. The skies were clear and the views fantastic.

There are several tunnels on the Bormio side, but no long scary ones (unless perhaps you are descending east on a bright sunny day). This, though, is a new thing for us. Partway through one of the gallerias (at the end of an open-sided section) there is a traffic light. The next bit is single-lane-alternating. There’s a bike signal too t9 discourage cyclists from sneaking through on the red.

The road zigzags up next to a spectacular cascading waterfall.

Climbing Passo dello Stelvio from Bormio

The approach from Bormio has at least 36 “tornantes” or switchbacks, although calling some of them a “tornante” is a bit of a stretch, in my opinion. They are all marked with signs, counting from the top, and the first sign I noticed said 36.

Tornante 11 is different because its sign is not on the outside of the curve. Here it is also where the road to the Swiss border and Passo Umbrail connects to Via Stelvio so the sign is on the inside of the curve (and safer to photograph). There are 3 more km to climb to Passo dello Stelvio from this point.

A closer look at that sign. The signs on this side were very nicely done, with several different types of alpine flowers.

I think there’s a bit of rivalry between the two jurisdictions that abut at the top. The iconic side (from Prato allo Stelvio) has most of its tornantes all together (you’ve seen the photos) and the total number is agreed to be 48, whereas the Bormio side has them in clusters with a maximum of 14 together.

In any case, the last 3 km were the most difficult for both of us. The signs claim that there are 10 tornantes in this section and some of these are ones I’d dispute, though I don’t know the official definition of a tornante.

We spent a bit of time at the top and a small bit of money—I bought a cycling cap and Al got a fridge magnet. Lest you think Al didn’t get a cycling-related souvenir, he bought a Stelvio jersey in 2018 and Stelvio gloves this time, both in a shop in Bormio.

No, I’m not going to lift my bike over my head.

All layered up to descend the iconic hairpins.

Then it was down the uncontested 48 tornantes to Trafoi and on to Prato allo Stelvio, where we stopped for a pasta lunch. Since it was only 10 km on a flat radweg to our accommodation, we each enjoyed a beer too. We had both noticed, on our way down, the large numbers of cyclists (and motorcyclists) coming up. A fair number of the cyclists were on e-bikes and even so, we wondered how many of them would make it to the top.

I’d layered up too, of course, since I had everything with me.

The signs on this side are more basic, but in two languages.

After Trafoi, we see villages and homes on the slopes—which look quite different now that we’re below treeline again.

We found our accommodation with a bit of difficulty but not too much. We’d seen a grocery store just a couple hundred metres before and there was a shared kitchen, so once we’d settled in we headed out to get groceries for breakfast and maybe tonight’s dinner too.

Have you ever heard of Whit Monday? We certainly hadn’t. It’s the Monday after Pentecost (aka Whit Sunday) and it seems to be a holiday here. As in, that grocery store was closed today and so was the other one in this little town. At least one of the restaurants was open; we only need one.

Heart

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Margie AndersonLook at those tight zigzags on this map!!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Margie AndersonMad scribbles!
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2 years ago

Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,680 km (1,043 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	9
Comment on this entry	Comment	6

Scott AndersonSo amazing. I’d love to take this ride someday. Congratulations! And no, we hadn’t heartfelt of Whit Monday before either but it’s also a holiday here in France.
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2 years ago

Scott FenwickI would also like to do that ride. Definitely an epic climb from either direction and completing the Stelvio Pass fully loaded - wow - as you likely already heard from others - RESPECT!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Scott FenwickI wouldn’t say “fully” loaded as we weren’t carrying camping gear. We did lug full loads up Mont Ventoux and I did many passes in the Pyrenees like that on my solo tour. But we are (a bit) older now.
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2 years ago

Susan CarpenterWell done - congratulations!
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Susan CarpenterThanks, Susan!
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2 years ago

Keith ClassenVery impressive - fully loaded!!!! Congratulations! Nice blue sky … beautiful!
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2 years ago