July 19, 2021
Cremona Day 2
When we really start riding
This morning get breakfast in the attached restaurant which is a kind of guessing game. They normally have a buffet but … Covid. The hostess offers a few trial suggestions to see what takes. Ken mentions yougurt and cereal and that works for her. For moi? Cheese, bread, ham would be fine. You can see her recalibrate. Are we German or French? Ken has been asked several times if he is French. We take pains to explain we are not British (despite bikes). It’s another sign of covid as there have been very few non-Italian tourists.
This morning we are determined to do the full loop planned from home. We head out the same route, get water and because it is even hotter today we soak our scarves too. Ken swaps out Zelda’s seat and we are off again.
The countryside is fascinating. Lots of corn and soybeans, a bit of hay. In the distance you can see church spires and hills that separate the valley from the coast. It’s Iowa with a different ambience.
Because we know where we are going the first 15k fly by. Then we follow the garmin and the Eurovelo8 south. We need a break and a wayside rest appears. Just a wide spot in the road next to a water source and lots of shade. Seat adjustments made and off we go again.
We cross a long expanse of a bridge. It is part of a major highway and we are saved by the roadworks that limit the traffic to one lane at a time. It is the only crossing of the Po within reasonable distance east of Cremona -- we'll take another bridge just west of the city on our return. Traffic is kind and we get across the 2.5 mile stretch without panic or incident (traffic-free riding is one of the best things about these routes).
The distance keeps going and Zelda is getting parched. Even drinking water doesn’t refresh enough as it is now 89 degrees and direct sun. A mistake in following the garmin brings us to the Cavallino Bianco (in Polsine Parmense)— a roadside restaurant that appears like a mirage. In no time the waiter brings Ken a plate of freshly made tortellini stuffed with cheeses (we are in Parma now) and Zelda is offered a salad and torta fritta when she declines the ham (“we are famous, much better than Parma ham, three kinds on the tasting board…”). The tomatoes are a combination of tomato and watermelon in flavor and the torta fritta disappear. We also manage to down two liters of seltzer water, a couple of cappuccinos and a semi-freddo that is the house speciality. It is unclear how we will ride.
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Ride we do, heading North on the EV8 and 12. There is no one on this side of the river. We know the distance, 22k, and all we need to be is back by 11. It’s a blissful lazy ride.
I cannot get over the accidental turning, the discovery of just the right kind of food for each of us, etc and all at the right time. We didn’t see another place on the route for the entire journey. Luck, road angels, Parma knowledge? Whatever it is, thank goodness.
The return to Cremona, across the Po, is by a long bridge with a separated bike lane. All of the return is by way of bike lanes unlike our journey down from the train station. Really easy travel and we find nary a cobblestone on this approach. Cobblestones are adorable and they are hell on a Brompton.
As I write, this is the clock tower in Cremona. It is telling me to stop writing and enjoy the evening.
Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 109 km (68 miles)
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3 years ago
I’m enjoying following along.
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