Oct 20 - Novigrad to Motovun: Winding road to an exquisite mountain village - Hvala: It's Been Thirty Sweet Years (Tour 16) - 2016 🇭🇷 🇸🇮 🇮🇹

October 20, 2016

Oct 20 - Novigrad to Motovun: Winding road to an exquisite mountain village

Houses of Motovun, Motovun, Croatia

HOW do the rain gods work and which way do their emotions play out? A few times in the night the rain was so heavy it sounded like a bathtub being dumped from the ceiling to the floor. Not only raining out there, it was a deluge. Resigned to the fact that the forecast had me expecting this kind of a day, I was more than surprised to see some blue tinges in the clouds when I dared to peek outside at 7 am.

The path along the Mirna R. Just for me.
- near Motovun, Hrvatska

I was quickly loaded and down to the street to a damp but warm morning, stopping at the bakery for the cherry treat I had tried yesterday afternoon. Caloric intake through the roof, I began the slow climb out of Novigrad. Not as steep as yesterday, I was able to pedal away and before long was to the village of Antenal where I had the choice to continue on the paved road, or use the limestone gravelly path along the Mirna River. Having looked at the route on ridewithgps, I decided on the gravel route, hoping it would not lead to a disappointing turnaround several kilometers down the road.

From whence I came along the road which follows the river inland from the sea
- Motovun, Hrvatska

I believe that since the path was along the river's levee it would remain somewhat level and not have any steep climbs. I was right. Though a few spots were kind of rough, after a few traffic-free km I opted to switch to the paved road which now paralleled the river as well. This new was the best. Yes, there was a slight incline since I was working my way upriver, but nothing compared to yesterday. Or to what was yet to come.

The gate into the Old City
- Motovun, Hrvatska

The sun peeked its little face out a few times, and though the road was wet, it was not raining as predicted. And then in the distance I could see the towers of Motovun on the peak of a really high hill. Now I had something to reach. The proverbial carrot on a stick. Being in less than the best physical shape shape, my sit-down area was wanting to lay down instead. Every 10 to 15 pedal strokes I would lift off the seat. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13. Stand, ahhhh, nice. Sit down and repeat.

Wandering the cobbled and slippery roads of the old town
- Motovun, Hrvatska

When the river route suddenly turned right and crossed the river, I knew I was in for quite the climb. About 2 km worth of switchbacks that I walked-biked-walked until I reached the hilltop village. With the streets so tiny and winding, even with the gps it was a slight bit trickier than normal to find my accommodations, but before long there it was. In the meantime, as I searched, I found dramatic views down into the valleys surrounding the town, passed through the beautiful city wall, and walked along the town walls, again with incredible views all around into the surrounding valleys and mountain peaks. And still no rain.

Houses of Motovun Guesthouse
- Motovun, Hrvatska

The family who operates this place also runs one of the best restaurants in town so while I waited for my room to be ready I made a reservation for lunch. The place only holds 15 to 20 people, so if the weather is marginal and the outdoor section is closed (probably another 20 to 30 outdoors on the terrace) reservations are mandatory.

When my room was ready I was shown to an awesome place with an amazing common sitting and kitchen area. Once alone I also cleaned the bike, folded it up and took it into my room as well so I would have no worries about it. No bike, no trip. Simple.

I returned to the restaurant where I had the recommended homemade pasta with black truffles (tartufi) along with a glass of their homemade wine. It was a lunch from heaven. The first and last time I had had truffles was in cheese in 2003 and I loved them then, too. Plus, my table was against the window with incredible views of the valley below. And then a rainbow formed and the other people in the place gasped and took photos of the beautiful scene. So did this nerd.

As I finished lunch, the light sprinkle of rain had stopped so I headed out around the village to poke my nose into a shop here and there, took a million photos of the valley, the old buildings and anything in between. Beautiful place.

Now I am enjoying the quiet relaxation of the common area to type and research tomorrow's route.

Restaurant Pod Napun. I had to have the homemade noodles with truffles TWICE because they were that good. With some house red wine, of course.
- Motovun, Hrvatska

Walking the walls of this mountaintop village.
- Motovun, Hrvatska

Homemade noodles in a creamy tartufi sauce. Heaven on a plate.
- Motovun, Hrvatska

Everywhere I turned there were persimmon (aka kaki) trees dripping with the bright orangey fruits. I was told, though, that they were not yet ripe. When not ready, they are mouth-puckeringly tannic.
- Motovun, Hrvatska

Olive oil and truffles were sold everywhere in the village.
- Motovun, Hrvatska

Today's ride: 29 km (18 miles)
Total: 121 km (75 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0