It was nice this morning, and through a good part of the night, that where I was staying made some indications that it also rented rooms out on a longer-term basis. Let's just say that through the paper-thin walls between my pillow and the bathroom, I could hear every noise from that room. There was someone (or maybe a few) who were snorting, coughing, gagging, spitting, and emanating all types of gas. I was wondering if I should get out a long pole and prod the creature into the forested hills to sniff out truffles. I was not sorry to leave this morning, though it did not really bother me that much. It made me laugh, really.

I could see patches of blue sky when I left the sty and it was about 10 C. As I left the city, past the hundreds of windmills (electricity-generating windmills) on the hilltops (amazing to see, really) the sky just kept getting better. I had a really nice ride, and through Puente de la Reina, I could see, just right there beside me, the medieval bridge spanning the river - it is beautiful.

The terrain, now that I can see it as the clouds part (kind of Monty Python-ish, eh?), is going from quite high hills to lower rolling forested hills. They recede into the distance and get to a hazy green-blue on the horizon. I could not see any snowy peaks today, so I guess I really am heading to flat ground in Castilla.

Before I knew it I was at a bend in a green river with an old church on the hill on one side, and a town clustered altogether on the other. I had arrived in Estella, and it was only 9:30 am. Amazing. The second hostal (NOT hostel, but a type of hotel) had room for me, and once again, had an amazing tub. I loved it. I soaked my head for hours. Ok, not really.

I am already (again?) hungry for my 'menu del dia', whatever it happens to be today, and will also get some nice pictures of the town and the Plaza Mayor. The sun is back, so the colour is back in my pictures. No more unintentional black and white (more like gray and gray).

Tapas, tapas, everywhere! Jamon on garlic 'pan', a dish of pickled olives, onions and gherkins, and some type of a fish bocadillo... with vino tinto. All just across the Plaza Mayor from my hostal. Then the town just closed up and was a ghost-town, so when in Rome... I had a really nice afternoon siesta, then went back out to look around this church-packed village.

Unfortunately, there is some kind of wet stuff all over the ground. It came from those grey puffy things floating by in the sky. I sure hope it is gone by tomorrow; I really do not feel like getting wet. Plus, I want to wash the bike once, not ten million times.

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