November 25, 2003
Tuesday Nov 25: Viana do Castelo to Braga: Lemons, Limes and one Amazing Catedral
So the battle of my cool bike vs the sissy one rages on.
I won't babble about today's great weather again. But great it was and is.
I had two choices to get to Braga, and after the hotel breakfast of scrambled eggs, orange juice, tea, two rolls, rolls of ham, rolls of cheese and a can of peaches (that was my own) I decided on the longer route (by 3 km) which my map suggests as more scenic. And scenic it was.
The ride was really through 'old' Portugal. Farmers with their overalls, or sweaters. I am seeing horse-drawn carts again. Little plots of veggies, small vineyards (with which they make their own wine), lemon, lime and orange trees (yes, this late in the year) and the occasional chicken. Good thing for these chickens that I found new tires! Old manor houses, which sadly seem to be deserted for the most part. I remember 22 years ago (before some people were born) that they were still inhabited. Are they too costly? Selling out to developers? I guess this happens everywhere, but it certainly is sad seeing these proud old homes falling into neglected disrepair. However, in short, the ride was beautiful again today. I love Portugal. And despite what I have been told and have read, the drivers are very respectful toward cyclists (or at least this one) so that at times I even wave them past otherwise they'll sit behind me waiting forever for a 'safe' moment to pass.
I was almost in Braga just before 10 am, but then there was that last 2 km. Up a vertical cliff it seemed. I thought my heart was going to explode out through the top of my head - or something extreme like that - but I made it without getting off to walk like a bebe-la-la. After a bit of disorientation, perhaps from that climb, I found my hotel on the square. Talk about a place with atmosphere. My book describes it as having big creaky rooms full of ancient furniture, and with the little old ladies running it just as ancient. I'm not sure about that, but the rest certainly is true. And what a view - I look into the square, the Catedral is to the right and all around are old medieval buildings, many of which with the characteristic blue-and-white tiles. What a grand place.
The information office is very helpful here, too (must be the country), and it seems my route tomorrow to Guimaraes is right out my door, past their office and 22 km away. A nice short day. Kind of a non-strenuous cycling day - unless it is like that last bit today into town the whole way!
Braga is the religious centre of Portugal and it seems there are several tens of churches, many of which are in the Old City. But, it also says the Catedral is really what must be seen. There certainly are a lot of old winding streets again, too. Moreover, being from where there is ALWAYS a white Christmas, this green and warm business here is incredible. Seeing all the Christmas lights up and on in the streets, the Christmas trees and images of Father Christmas, I really am bewildered. Not to mention tropical fruit trees and blossoming flowers all over the place! What happens when I return to the Great White North, stepping off the plane and it's -30? Culture shock perhaps?
So, as always, 'report' completed, nice day before me, I think it is time for a long walk. Immerse myself in some Portugueseness.
And not yet mentioned, to those following me and leaving these nice comments, Obrigado. I enjoy hearing from everyone, though sometimes it takes me a while to reply since many of these computers are very slow or the keyboards are tough to navigate. But I do read them all!
Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 4,434 km (2,754 miles)
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