November 18, 2003
Tuesday Nov 18: Villafranca del Bierzo to Samos: Meeting Fellow Cyclists
After a hearty cyclist's breakfast I was away into the sub-zero clear morning. From the start the road climbed and over ever-higher terrain I climbed a number of altos (passes) which culminated in the Alto de Poio at 1,355 m. The scenery was stunning once again, as the road rolled over each hill then fell over the other side. There was one big descent that lasted for about 10 km, with a grade of 7% where I just flew by the km markers.
I pulled off the bike in this small village right beside the huge and imposing monasterio alongside a running river, amongst the fallen fall leaves, and with a few old stone bridges spanning the river to it. This was a great choice.
Luckily just down the road was a B&B with a grocery store right across the road; it was beautiful, clean and friendly. So, I dumped the bike there, got ready and went down and walked along the river and around the monasterio. When it opened I went on the little tour of the garden and cloister - a MUST if anyone comes through here. As well, I asked about the monks' chanting service in the evening and was told to be by the pilgrims' refugio at 7:15 pm and they would come come and get anyone who was there and interested in attending (they never did come, which was quite disappointing).
In the evening after not hearing the chanting I returned to the hostal to find two touring bikes in the lobby beside mine. I ended up meeting with the two women I had run into in Villafranca yesterday. I had already eaten, but I joined them to hear how their tour is going. They are cycling the Camino from Leon to Santiago. Coincidences are so strange. (By very nature, I suppose, eh?)
Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 4,078 km (2,532 miles)
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