Luck has been so amazingly with me this week, and here it is again today. Though I could not see any shooting stars out my hostal window this morning, I certainly could see many constellations it was so clear out. The light does not start in the sky now til almost 8 am.

This morning was the first in a while that I did not have to chip the ice from my nose after the first few km. And by the time the day wore on, off came the gloves, then even the coat, it was that warm. Moreover, I could see a definite change in the vegetation to increasingly more palm trees, trees with leaves (green ones), no frost damage to the ground ferns, and even blossoms in some trees and nasturtiums (spelling??) in many gardens. I am certainly out of the cold plains of Castilla y Leon. And I like it on the bike, and all.

About an hour into the rolling terrain I ran into one of the Basque cyclists again. His buddy was back having a coffee and was to catch up when he was done. When he got a flat he said to carry on, which I did, and did not see them on the road again that day.

Just before the last hill into Santiago I was counting down the km. Not because I was anxious for the Camino finale, but anxious to get off the bike - the hills were making me tired. But, when I finally crested that last hill and could see the Catedral in the distance, I kind of felt a bit of regret that the end of this part was about to end and maybe even slowed just a touch. Just a touch.

I kept following the signs to the Centro Ciudad, and suddenly I was in the Plaza in front of the great Catedral. I had done the Camino de Santiago!!! I asked one guy to take my picture, then along came a guy from Brazil who congratulated me on my arrival. Wow. I cannot believe that I am here already. The whole ride has not been monumental - only a whole bunch of individual pedal strokes that all of a sudden, magically made me arrive here. So it is nothing so amazing, really. Anyone could do it if they wanted to. I think it would be like building a house - it is not pulled out of a hat; rather, it is built from many small bits from the basement up.

Not one minute later, I looked over to the south side of the Plaza where I saw what looked like a whole bunch of Knights Templar or such gathering. When I got closer, (ie Brent the nosy cyclist) I could see they had instruments. And on their capes were all manner of badges, pins, buttons, crests, ribbons, and emblems. I finally asked one young guy in a cape what was going on. He told me that this was a traditional type of musical group found in Spain and Mexico (they were from Mexico) and they would be performing soon. I had a brilliant idea, and gave him a pin from Iroquois Falls, Cochrane and Canada which quite pleased him, then asked for his picture, which he was glad to do. Then he had to go as they were about to start performing... right there in front of me on the steps beside the Catedral. All 25 or so of them. Imagine the sterotypical Mexican cartoon with 3-4 guys in capes and sombreros playing guitars, accordians and violins singing Spanish tunes. Well, take away the hats, make it 25-30 of them, add in some fancy dancing and spinning so their capes and ribbons were flowing around them, and even then you could not imagine how amazing they were. And after about 4 songs, they thanked everyone and put away their instruments. Just like that. Anyone want to travel with me? I always have luck with this kind of stuff. One Spanish guy said that I was very lucky as this kind of thing happens at most once in a month here. Understated, but.... WOW!!!

Nothing could compare with that, so I'll be brief. I booked my hostal just a few steps from the Catedral for two days, got my Camino papers done, had a traditional Galician lunch, and will shortly be searching for some traditional Galician tires for my traditional Canadian bicycle on its un-traditional ride across Europe. I should have new tires so that I do not have too many flats in the next few days of forecast rain!!

As per the directions from the person at the hostal, I went to the closest bike shop. I asked for what I needed... he said he'd check... and emerged with just what I needed, and even had a second one. So, I have my tires and don't have to pull a magic act with a chicken. What I did not find was the LP-Portugal so maybe a lizard might be cast into one with the right spell? But, 50% is not bad!

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