November 23, 2003
Sunday Nov 23: Pontevedra to Tuy: To the Edge of the Land of Moors, Sumol & Cabo da Roca
What luck, eh? I peeked out again this morning to see.... pouring rain. So I was finally going to get soaked. Oh well, I have been SOOOO lucky lately, it's not even funny (how's that an expression from when I was a kid?!). Not only that, but after having my breakfast of amazing tangerines that were sweeter than a Tim Horton's (yes, Cochrane's one and only) sour-cream glazed doughnut - the segments just melted in my mouth. That and the mancheco cheese that is about as sharp as romano or parmesan but softer and to die for. I have been eating it by the gobs since feeling better. I just bought another chunk for tomorrow morning, too.
Anyway, I digress, digress and digress. When I finally got outside, a little later than normal, to avoid avoid cycling in the deep-sea-like murk of each of these mornings, the rain had changed to a fine and light mist, though it was still a Cousteau-like morning. By the time I had rolled downhill and out of town, across a number of roaring mountain streams, past the mist-enshrouded hills, smoke lazily creeping out of the chimneys, orange trees dripping with glowing orange spheres, roosters crowing, bicycle wheels crunching over the road pebbles, the mist had stopped, and again from the west-northwest I could see clear sky and the sun trying to light things up. As the day progressed, I realized that they had photocopied yesterday's weather for today.
It was really beautiful riding for the first part of the day, but as I approached Vigo it was a mixed thing. It was getting very industrial and not particularly attractive from km to km; however, at each Ria, I could see where the high tide mark was - I am getting to the Ocean!! For the last 14 km, there was a point where I was wondering if I had gotten lost in a beautiful industrial zone in northern Mississauga. It was that or ride illegally on the Autovia, so I had no choice. At least approaching Tuy (prounced like 'Toonie' without the 'n') I came out of the industrial park and came through some little towns, though not that beautiful, either.
Fortunately, on arriving in Tuy and its old centre, things changed completely. A beautiful little town up on a hill overlooking the Rio Miño and Portugal on the other side. I can almost smell the Sumol from here (a local juice/pop kind of like Fanta - or at least the Fanta over here that has real orange or lemon juice in it, which I do not think it has in Canada). A Catedral that looks like a fortress. Tiny, twisting, cobbled streets which peek across the river.
Now, my hotel is another interesting place. It seems since my LP was published four years ago, things have changed in this not-too-bustling town. A number of places no longer exist. But, this old hotel I am in is something else. Probably something spectacular in its day decades ago, probably at the turn of the century (1900) or even before that. Hardwood floors, a big fancy staircase with elaborate railings to the second floor. Big wooden doors and one of those windows above it - kind of like the place our family stayed in Sintra back in 1981. But, there is no heat, the WC is down the hall, and the room is a bit old looking. But I still like it as I like what it used to be - yesterday's splendour.
On another note, I am going to have to go into desperation mode soon. I finished my book a few hours ago so have nothing to read and no new LP book to guide me. I think I might have to resort to reading my clothes' washing instructions for reading material. I think next time I'll have to get a palm pilot with a regular foldable keyboard. That way I'll be able to type my journal instead of writing (this typed version is only a fraction of the 'whole thing' - if there is a book, it will be from the full version, mind you maybe it will be boring if it's that long!), plus I could store books on disk in it and at least have that to read. Anyone out there know anything about word processing, text on disk and palm pilots, including approximate prices?
Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 4,324 km (2,685 miles)
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