December 7, 2003
Sunday Dec 7: Sintra to Cascais (via Cabo da Roca)
Well what a day this has been...
First, it was clear out so you won't read my complaining!
I wound my way through narrow little roads from Sintra until I was almost at the coast. It was incredibly beautiful - I took many many pics to prove it. Before long the Atlantic loomed very large, and then a turnoff, 2.5 km downhill, and there was the lighthouse, the cross and a bus full of Japanese tourists. I had come from Istanbul and the Bosporus to the westernmost point of continental Europe... Cabo da Roca. Any further and you are in the water until you hit the 'New' world. The bus tourists were all excited to have their picture taken with me. And was it ever beautiful. Shimmering water. Crashing waves far far below, and the cliffs leading off into the distance. I could almost hear the whimpering of that girl from that reality tv programme. Too bad she hadn't been lost at sea.
When nobody was looking, I took the little note I had written (with my name, address, e-mail, and a brief description of what I had just completed) asking for them to let me know when they find it, attached a Canada pin to the note, popped it into a cleaned and dried pop bottle, and tossed it over the cliff. I hope it makes its way to the sea some day. I hope I don't end up in Portuguese litter jail. But I did it and enjoyed doing it. It just felt right.
I climbed back out from the Cape and headed south, and before long I was in Guincho where the road is either sand-covered because it is basically along the beach, or on top of rocks with the sea a few metres below, pounding away. Stunning. And this went on and on for many kilometres. What a way to finish this bike odyssey - just as I started - along the water and on a perfect day. I could not have asked for better. I see why there were a few hundred cyclists all along the route today. They must come for miles around to ride this circuit. If anyone out there is looking for a holiday with somewhere with maybe the most beautiful cycling route, plus flat, this just might be that place.
I kind of slowed down as I came into Cascais. The way I remember it, there was a road through the sand and rocks... Now it is a road through hotels, stores, restaurants, resorts, bars, houses, tennis courts, malls, more roads.... things have changed. But they have not detracted from that coastline. I was able to find the hidden Turismo and they suggested a Pensoa basically across the street. What luck! Then they suggested a bike shop where I might find boxes to package everything up for Wednesday's flight. And the shop gave me two boxes. What luck! I was 2.5 km from my Pensao with these boxes wondering how on earth to get them back on the bike. Always fun. Well, I rigged something up with the trailer and actually rode back. What luck! And now I can explore this formerly sleeping village and its stunning beaches and rocks. As before, I think I'll take the walk out to Boca do Inferno where the waves crash through a rock bridge. I'll dip my toes into the Atlantic. I'll collect a bit of Cascais beach sand to have as a 'real' keepsake. I'll have a glass of wine I just bought to toast to such a good little bike ride and all of the encouragement I have received from home, from along the way, and from around the world online. THANKS TO EVERYONE!!
PS Yes, the distance DID work out even. I might have to go for a little spin tomorrow to break all those zeros.
PPS I am still going to have entries for the next few days plus a final one (yes, the epilogue, or 'final thoughts')once I am home, but they might not be so interesting and might be like reading the ingredients on a bottle of ketchup.
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Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 5,000 km (3,105 miles)
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