October 27, 2003
Monday Oct 27: St. Palais to Burguete, Espana: Through the Pyrenees
Starting out as a foggy day, but gradually improving, this was a great day. Plus, just before the border, at St Jean-Pied-de-Port, I found a sport shop who were more than happy to sell me a set of shoe covers for the low low price of 44 Euros ($65-70) - at home at MEC they'd be about $25. Oh well, I needed them.
Though not a rough climb, it was steady enough, and with the hunters all around shooting at who knows what, I was wondering if my head was going to get a puncture. Fortunately, it did not. Near to the peak, I could see on the adjacent peak a light dusting of snow, though it was quite warm as I cycled (duh, no kidding!). When I stopped to talk to a French cyclist who was at the summit on his road bike, after we chatted a few minutes we were both frozen - the higher the altitude, the colder the temp, eh?
When I got to the summit, I was well into Spain, as evidenced by the change in highway signage, and general stores which were in Spanish now, of course.
The quick cool ride down into Burguete was great after the long climb. It was once I was in the village that I realized that here was where Hemingway used to come to get away. In fact the Hotel where I had lunch (trout, chorizo and vino tinto) was where he used to come, and I think he stayed there, too. Very cool.
Otherwise, there was nothing much to do in the village of maybe 500. There was not even a grocery store to get lunch number 2. So, I returned to my cold room to read and just listen to tunes as the rain got heavier outside. Eventually they turned on the heat so I was able to melt the ice from my veins and dry my gear, thankfully.
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Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 3,441 km (2,137 miles)
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