October 20, 2003
Monday Oct 20: Beziers to Carcassonne: Will someone please turn OFF the wind.
I have found the enemy... and its name is WIND.
I peeked out the window this morning and the stars were twinkling away. I suppose I should get used to it changing so much, eh?
After picking up breakfast, I found my way to the Canal du Midi, which I followed out of the city for about 10 km. It was fabulous - a pale green canal, with fall leaves lazily floating by, a row of trees on either side, and the morning sun just rising to cast an orange glow on everything. And there I was cycling along it and past the locks.
Once I was out of the city, though, I got off the path because it had turned into a swampy mess after the rain over the past few days (as well as storm warnings, apparently). It was too bad, but with this bike and these tires, it was just not possible. The Cannondale would have flown along.
On the road, I discovered what the winds are like when they blast along from the Atlantic through this region to the Mediterranean. Even when cycling downhill on gentle descents I had to pedal, otherwise I would have stopped moving.
When I came to the point where I was 50 km away, I was already exhausted. Fortunately I found a little market where I gobbled down a whole whack of muscat grapes - so sweet and juicy. The mountains are returning, too. Again, as I cycled today, they started to move in from both the north and the south, so I imagine that before long I will be climbing again. Of course, to enter España I have to cross the Pyrenees, though I am not sure of which route yet. Different Camino routes cross at different points.
When I finally struggled into the city, I picked a hotel and went right to it, got my room, and just snoozed for a while - I was zonked. I felt a lot better when I got up, and since then I have gone across the Pont Vieux and up to the double-walled city up on the hill. It was very beautiful and the views were great from within, but I really found the most striking view from near the new bridge looking over to the old one and up to the walled cité.
Shortly ago I was looking for a restaurant, but many places are closed on Mondays, restaurants being one of them. I think this city is crawling with tourists in the summer, and maybe on weekends, but it sure is quiet now. Maybe they were at home battening the hatches so the darned wind would not blow everything to Egypt.
After the tough day today, I am going to make it a 'short' day of about 50 km, and NOT in the 75-80 km range I have been doing lately. I will be heading towards Toulouse, but not sure if I will go into it or not. It is a large-ish city and I much prefer the smaller ones, so I might just go small for the next few days.
Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 3,011 km (1,870 miles)
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