October 13, 2003
Monday Oct 13: Castellane to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
When I stepped out this morning, it was warm enough but I noticed that someone in the night must have painted everything in a grey-white wash, and each drop of colour was reflecting all of the rest of the grey-white. Any more humidity and it would have been raining out.
Because of the thick fog, the first while through the Gorge du Verdon was pretty but I could hardly see the mountains and even the sound of the rushing river was being swallowed right up. So I kept cycling along the nice sweeping turns through fall conditions of bright yellow, orange and occasionally red leaves, along with that smell of fallen leaves. I could see leaves immediately beside me!
Expecting stores to be open in Castellane, which they were not, and expecting there to be shops along the way, which there were not, I was getting rather hungry - especially when the road decided to turn upwards.
Fortunately, I came to Palud, a BEAUTIFUL little village where the patisserie was more than pleased to sell me some torte. In town I also picked up some Camembert (spelling), juice and fruit just in case. By now there was a much clearer sky, and when I pulled out of town, it was as clear as a bell. In fact, when I looked back, it looked like the the valley from which I had come had been filled with milk.
There was a bit more climbing but once that was done, I was back into the heart of the Gorge which was just spectacular - highly recommended -- so I stopped forever for photos. The brakes had it easy, too, as the descents were not too steep, the turns were not too sharp, so I just played with the bike all the way down.
There was one last little climb into town here, but it was SO worth it. This little village is perched in the mountains over a little mountain stream which is gushing down the mountain. The colours are most definitely Provençal, and by now I am convinced that I want every room I ever live in to be decorated in these colours and in this style. I am staying in a chambre d'hote which is just beautiful, and decorated... Provençal - absolutely beautiful, and so friendly (the people, not the room) - so much so that I think I will stay here and not return home!
My croque monsieur lunch with local red wine, followed by a Camembert snack. It's a good thing I'll be cycling tomorrow (if I ever leave).
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Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 2,611 km (1,621 miles)
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