November 28, 2003
Friday Nov 28: Amarante to Porto: A Glass of Port in Porto
I thank my stars for hot water and bath tubs. I sure needed one today after I went the furthest distance I've done in a while over so many hills. But I finally arrived to this port city (the 'Portu' in Portugal), got to my place and got all warmed up.
A city is not at its best on a cold, gray and very wet day, but still, the Old City is something to see. I believe it was even declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Some exploring is due despite the wetness.
I had to look for an internet cafe that actually had snacks and such, since I had to have a glass of Port. So, here it is beside me, tasting like I remember it tasting before - like a glass of perfectly good wine that has had a cup of sugar dumped into it. Not my favourite, but how many times will I visit Porto? I'm not sure, but this will be my last taste of Port, thank you very much (all said in hushed tones, since after yesterday's and today's comments the 'wine police' are going to lock me up).
Funny, every time I am in an internet cafe that is playing music, I hear at least one song from that Vancouver guy and at least one from 'that girl' from northeastern Ontario. Her music is on VH- 1 as I type right now. Wow, and Depeche Mode, Cure... is this commemorating my final year of Western? Sounds like it.
One thing I noticed amongst the old buildings on the way in and around are the number of Christmas decorations here. Beautifully decorated stores - stunning, really. Quite getting me into the 'spirit' though it is still way early for Christmas. Such things as putting up Christmas trees this early... insanity. Pure bossiness and insanity.
Jumping from topic to topic... my Pensao is just a few tens of metres from the edge of a cliff overlooking the Douro, with the old walls across the road. I did take a picture, but it is something to see. with these walls brooding over the edge of the precipice. Tomorrow I traverse the river, though by bridge and not some super-human feat of challenging the river or air. The pensao is an old family home with much character and as much central heating as it had in the 'olden' days. But that's ok, it is not too cold out now.
As for my next few days, I am going to make a path pretty well straight south until I get much closer to Lisboa, with a stop in Coimbra ('Kweembra') probably in 2-3 days. It depends on how I feel tomorrow. Whatever the weather turns to by tomorrow morning will help me determine what I do tomorrow - ie I'll decide when I get up in the morning.
I had quite a scare about five or six km out this morning. Suddenly the chain was in the spokes, so first of all, I was afraid of breaking spokes. Then when I checked, I saw that one of the pulley wheels of the rear derailleur was off. Luckily, I found it and the two metal brackets on the road. Even the bolt was still hanging in the derailleur, otherwise it would have been a very big deal to get rolling again.
Fearing permanent damage to some part or other, I put the parts back together and gingerly rode away, with very black greasy hands. And all seemed fine. Mind you, I stopped many times to check that the derailleur was ok, which it was. A lesson to myself and anyone else who does a cycle tour - like with pre-flight checks with an airplane, look things over on a regular basis. Some every ride, others each week, month or year. Otherwise you might be very sorry. I was just really lucky.
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Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 4,556 km (2,829 miles)
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